When we first decided to cycle the Rallarvegen, we knew we were in for some stunning landscapes, but nothing could have prepared us for the sheer beauty of this iconic Norwegian gravel route.
Starting from Haugastøl, we only made it to Finse on our first day (thanks to a very late start). The scenery was incredible right from the start. And then, just when we thought it couldn’t get any better, we hit Finse and were absolutely blown away by the glacier views.
Starting up in Finse: A Meeting with Mother North Cyclists
We spent the night at the Finse Turisthytte, which gave us a chance to connect with other travelers. The dinner atmosphere was cozy, and we found ourselves chatting with two cyclists participating in the Mother North Race—a hardcore endurance race. Their stories about cycling through the rough Norwegian terrain were equal parts inspiring and intimidating! I couldn’t help but admire their perseverance.
Slowing down: Finse to Flåm
The next day, we continued towards Flåm, but at what we called a “photo pace”—meaning we stopped all the time to take pictures. At breakfast in the DNT Finsehytte, we met a friendly Dutch couple also traveling by bike. We rode together for a bit, but after a few kilometers, we already parted ways because we were taking so many breaks to capture the beauty of the Rallarvegen biking trail.
Whether you’re considering a longer trip through Norway (like the route of the Mother North Race) or just want a weekend adventure, the Rallarvegen is a perfect option. The trail offers everything: jaw-dropping scenery, historical railway paths, hospitality and a mix of easy-going rides and challenging sections.Plus, there’s lots of other amazing gravel roads in the area, like the Mjølkevejen.
One of our favorite moments was reaching Klevagjelet. The sight of the powerful water crashing down was mesmerizing. But what really made us laugh were the hilarious (and terrifying) warning signs showing a cyclist flying head-first off their bike. Let’s just say those signs weren’t kidding—some sections of the trail are steep, rocky, and slippery. Descending the switchbacks at Myrdalsvingane requires some serious skill, and while the sandy twists were fun for us, I can totally understand why others might prefer to walk their bikes down instead.
Once we made it to Flåm, we treated ourselves to a night in a fancy hotel. It was the last room available, and we were lucky to get it! Little did we know, we had arrived on the same day as a massive cruise ship—Thursday is apparently the big cruise day. The town was packed with tourists, which felt a little overwhelming after so much time in the quiet wilderness. But dinner at Ægir Microbrewery was fantastic. The highlight of the night? The ferry’s horn blaring as it departed, followed by the restaurant staff’s cheer—it was like a mini celebration of peace returning to the town.
Cycling Rallarvegen: The Flåmsbana cheat
On the way back, we’ll admit—we cheated a bit. Instead of cycling up the steep Myrdalsvingane switchbacks again, we took the Flåmsbana train up to Myrdal. Honestly, though, this is a must-do when you’re cycling Rallarvegen. The train ride is adorable, and we loved the surprise stop at a stunning waterfall. Plus, with typical Norwegian weather (rain, of course), this little shortcut was a welcome break.
From Myrdal, we hopped on another train to Hallingskeid stasjon—just one stop away. That saved us a good chunk of uphill riding, leaving us with only a bit more climbing to do in the rain before reaching Finse. After a lunch stop, we powered through the final descent back to Haugastøl, where we had parked our car. It felt surreal to return to “civilization” after spending days surrounded by nothing but raw, wild landscapes.
This area is just so untouched—it’s hard to believe it’s only a train ride away. We’re already dreaming about our next visit, whether it’s for biking, hiking, or maybe even some skiing. The Rallarvegen makes for the perfect weekend getaway, but you could easily spend a week here exploring. And while we might be biased, we have to say—by bike is the best way to see it all!
Practical Tips for Cycling Rallarvegen
- When to Go: The best time for a Rallarvegen cycling trip is between July and September, when the trails are clear of snow.
- What to Bring: Pack waterproof layers – from head to toe! The weather changes fast. Also, don’t forget a repair kit and plenty of snacks.
- Accommodation: Booking ahead is essential, especially in Flåm, which can get busy. We stayed at an expensive hotel because it was all that was left on short notice, but with some planning there are plenty of options for all budgets.
- How to Get There: You can take the train to Haugastøl from Bergen or Oslo, or drive like we did. Parking was free at the big parking place across the Haugastøl Turistsenter. Bringing bikes on the train was super easy, but make sure to reserve a spot for your bike in advance.
Final Thoughts on Rallarvegen: Cycling Norway’s Wilderness
The Rallarvegen is the perfect balance between accessibility and adventure. Whether you’re an experienced cyclist looking for a challenge or just want a comfortable wilderness escape, this trail has something for everyone. The combination of breathtaking views, historical charm, and the option to mix in some train travel makes it an unforgettable experience. We are already planning our next trip—who knows, maybe we’ll give skiing a try next time!
Follow all our adventures on Instagram and make sure to explore the related posts for more information! And curious about gravel cycling and bikepacking in Norway? You can find more stories here and here.
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