Celebrating Midsommar in Dalsland – Cycling, Hiking & Unplugging at Nordic Refuge

Sabina standing at the front door of Nordic Refuge, a peaceful bed & breakfast in Dalsland, Sweden

    We couldn’t be more excited to visit Dalsland again, especially to celebrate Midsommar in Dalsland. This time, with a focus on slow travel and reconnection during a stay at Nordic Refuge. And it didn’t disappoint. The elegant and comfortable bed & breakfast turned out to be the perfect basecamp for exploring the area by bike and foot.

    We celebrated Midsommar the local way: wildflower crowns, seasonal food, and long golden evenings. Meanwhile, in between rides and hikes, we also took time to enjoy the region’s quiet charm. Cozy cafés, small cultural spots, and peaceful stretches along the Dalsland Kanal suited the slow pace of the trip just right.

    Traditional Midsommar celebration in Fengersfors with people dancing around the maypole
    Gravel cycling in Dalsland — Sabina riding along a forest road with lake views behind her
    Scenic view from Sörknatten with forested cliffs overlooking calm lakes in Dalsland, Sweden

    Nordic Refuge – Peaceful basecamp in Dalsland

    Nordic Refuge is a peaceful bed & breakfast tucked into the forest, about 2.5 hours from Gothenburg and 2 hours from Oslo. The former school has a stylish interior and thoughtful design throughout. There’s no TV and no WiFi in the rooms. So, it’s the perfect place to properly wind down after a day outside. The hosts are enthusiastic cyclists themselves, therefore checking in with a bike is easy, with safe storage and plenty of local route advice.

    Minimalist guest room at Nordic Refuge with clean design and forest views in Dalsland, Sweden
    Bright and peaceful bedroom at Nordic Refuge, designed for comfort and simplicity.

    Around Midsommar, it only gets truly dark for an hour or two. Sunset is after 10:30 pm, but the sky stays light well past midnight. Moreover, the sun is back up by 3:30 am. It’s easy to lose track of time in the best possible way. Mornings start slow here, with great coffee and fresh breakfast, all while being surrounded by nature with hundreds of trees and a calm lake.

    Scandinavian breakfast at Nordic Refuge with coffee, yoghurt topped with granola, and fresh orange juice
    Cozy shared living space at Nordic Refuge with thoughtful Scandinavian interior design
    Nordic Refuge breakfast hall with wooden details and large windows looking out onto nature

    Gravel Cycling near Nordic Refuge

    Dalsland has been called Sweden’s gravel cycling destination, and for good reason. We already knew the landscapes were beautiful, but riding here amazed us again. The area is covered in miles of winding gravel roads, stretching through forests, lakes, and rolling hills, making it a dream for gravel bikes. We’re not diving too deep into routes here, because honestly, you can’t go wrong. Just open Strava’s heat map or check out The Dalsland Experience and West Sweden for inspiration.

    Cyclist taking a break by a lake in Dalsland, Sweden — bikes resting in the foreground
    Farawayistan gravel cycling on a quiet Swedish country road surrounded by forest and fields

    There’s also no shortage of long-distance routes nearby like the Unionleden, Dalslandleden, Sverigeleden, and Vänerleden, with some literally passing right by the front door of Nordic Refuge. Just a heads-up: the northwestern part of Dalsland is the hilliest. A 55 km route can easily include nearly 900 meters of climbing. Still, the views, the quiet roads, and the deep forests make every climb worth it.

    Gravel bike parked outside a rural Swedish supermarket during a cycling break
    Directional signpost in Dalsland showing long-distance cycling routes like Unionleden and Dalslandleden
    Enjoying an ice cream break during a summer gravel ride in Dalsland, Sweden
    Farawayistan riding a gravel road through Swedish nature with wildflowers

    Hiking trails and nature in Dalsland

    Hiking in Dalsland offers the same kind of freedom and variety as cycling. The region is packed with well-marked trails and beautiful nature reserves like Sörknatten, Baståsen, and the archipelago of Yttre Bodane, a mix of forests, lakes, and rocky ridges. Some routes even pass through filming locations from Astrid Lindgren’s Ronja, the Robber’s Daughter, which gives the landscape a fairytale feel. One of the highlights, in every sense, is Baljåsen, the highest point in Dalsland.

    Hiker taking a break on the Sörknatten trail in Dalsland — Sabina resting and drinking water in the shade
    Sabina at a viewpoint on Sörknatten trail, surrounded by forest and lake views in Dalsland

    Tresticklan Nationalpark is another beautiful hiking area. At 30 square kilometres, it’s the largest road-less, uninhabited forest region in southern Sweden. From here, you can even hike all the way to Norway. And since we were there right at the start of blueberry season, we couldn’t resist stopping to pick and snack on fresh berries along the way. The perfect trail snack.

    Close-up of fresh wild blueberries picked during a summer hike near Sörknatten in Dalsland
    Hands picking wild blueberries along a forest trail in Dalsland — perfect trail snack during a hike

    Celebrating Midsommar in Dalsland

    We’ve been living in Sweden for a while but had never celebrated Midsommar the local way until now. In Dalsland, the longest day of the year is embraced with nature and tradition. We got to the celebration site in style: by tractor. The whole celebration felt like stepping into a storybook: everyone wearing vibrant flower crowns made from freshly picked wildflowers and dancing around the majstång. 

    Swedish Midsommar festivities in Fengersfors, Dalsland, featuring music, dancing, and community traditions
    Swedish Midsommar fika in Fengersfors, Dalsland, with coffee and cake
    Locals and visitors gathered in Fengersfors for a joyful Midsommar celebration

    In particular, the food was a real highlight too. A simple, fresh, and delicious meal with new potatoes with dill, pickled herring, and the sweetest local strawberries. Strawberries with Midsommar is a big thing. Crazy fact: prior to Midsommar, Swedish news reported a nationwide strawberry shortage, causing prices to more than double. The long daylight hours made the evening feel endless.

    Traditional Swedish Midsommar meal with new potatoes, pickled herring, and salmon

    Local cafés and culture in Dalsland

    One of the true highlights of Dalsland is its local gems. Swedes take their coffee breaks seriously and that is no exception here. Thankfully, there is Brukets Godaste, a serious contender for Sweden’s best bakery and the perfect spot for a fika. While enjoying our coffee and pastries, we spotted a Visit Dalsland magazine featuring a familiar face – Sabina, from our last trip, road-side fika and all.

    Exterior of Brukets Godaste bakery in Dalsland, Sweden — cozy red building in a historic setting
    Freshly baked loaves of bread and pastries on display at Brukets Godaste, one of Sweden’s best bakeries

    Another cultural treasure is Not Quite, a creative centre housed in a former paper mill where art, crafts and local events bring the community together. During summer, the Dalsland Kanal buzzes with activity, a rare busy spot in Sweden. The Kanal and its locks are an impressive piece of engineering, connecting lakes and allowing boats to navigate through the region’s waterways. Even with a flyover for cars and trains! At Håfveruds Rökeri & Brasseri you can enjoy smoked fish, a drink or ice cream in the sun.

    Overview of the Dalsland Kanal in summer, with forested shores, calm water, and connected lakes

    Final thoughts on exploring Dalsland

    All in all, returning to Dalsland reminded us why we love slow travel, by taking time to reconnect with nature and local traditions. Nordic Refuge proved to be the perfect peaceful basecamp for exploring the region’s gravel roads, hiking trails, and charming cultural spots. Celebrating Midsommar the local way, cycling past lakes and forests, and discovering hidden gems made this trip truly special. If you’re looking for a place to slow down, reconnect with nature, and soak it all in, Dalsland is an experience not to miss.

    Robin and Sabina of Farawayistan standing with their bikes in front of Nordic Refuge in Dalsland, Sweden

    Follow all our adventures on Instagram and make sure to explore the related posts for more information!

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