Farawayistan

Tag: nepal

Hiking along the high peaks of Nepal

After six months of dragging around our heavy hiking boots, we were finally able to put them to good use. Our next Himalayan adventure would be on foot. Hiking the Manaslu circuit trek.

The Manaslu circuit trek is far less crowded than the popular treks around Everest and Annapurna. The two week hike circles Manaslu, the world’s eighth highest peak at 8,163 meters (26,781 ft). Buddhist monasteries, architecture and traditions had left us feeling we were in a completely different country and sometimes even in the neighboring territory, mystical Tibet.

Permits, porters and guides

Our bikes were safely stored at the lovely hotel where we’d recuperated from cycling the Annapurna. We had spend most of our days trying the local cuisine, relaxing in bed, ordering kati rolls and pizza to our room and preparing for the two week-hike.

At one of the many tour offices we negotiated for a guide and a porter to carry our backpacks. It’s not cheap to do a long trek off the beaten trek in Nepal. We needed three expensive permits that already set us back 125 USD each. We agreed upon a price that seemed fair to us which included everything. Transport, three meals a day, porter and guide plus accommodation at the teahouses. Hot showers and wifi were not included, but for a chai with every meal we closed the deal.

The strong porter

Bringing along a porter was sheer luxury but made our hike a lot more enjoyable. We bought a cheap knockoff backpack in Pokhara and borrowed trekking poles from our friends. We only packed what was absolutely necessary to save our porters back. Lalu was a tiny man in his late fifties. Not only did he carry our two backpacks, he also had his own bag. He would still walk miles ahead every single time and waited for us while het sat there, smoking his little hand rolled cigarette.

After a one and a half day very bumpy bus ride, our trek started in Soti Khola. For the first two days we walked on the new jeep track. Sometimes we would catch a glimpse of the old hiking trail, seeing what was in store for us. A typical Nepali flat trail, meaning it constantly went up and down along the cliff. Climbing the whole day without actually gaining any elevation.

Jeep track to rocky trail

As promised to us by our guide Mayla, about two hours after Macha Khola we crossed a bridge and the rocky trail and actual climbing started. From now on we only shared the trail with locals and porters and donkeys carrying up all sorts of goods. Groceries, entire fridges, metal components for the suspension bridges, they somehow even managed to get a pool table up there.

The first part of the trail followed the Buri Gandaki, a long river gorge with many suspension bridges. We trekked from the subtropical jungle at lower elevation to forest and rice paddies in the Himalayan foothills. We climbed countless stone staircases, crossed steel suspension bridges and greeted the friendly locals in their picturesque villages.

Our worst nightmare

The only other trekkers we met were all coming back down from the pass. It had been closed for days now after heavy snowfall a few days earlier. They had given up waiting but we still had hope the sun would melt away some of the snow. Here in the valley it was still very warm and the forecast was promising after all.

But just what we had feared became reality very quickly. At the checkpoint in Philim officers told us the pass was closed and wouldn’t open again before next season. Instead of with trekkers, we shared the teahouses with locals making their way down from their villages to Kathmandu. Almost everyone had closed up for winter earlier than normal.

Walking amongst the Himals

We decided to keep walking and go as far as we could get. We were so bummed we couldn’t complete the entire trail. To make matters worse one of our camera’s also broke down. Our mindfulness practice was truly put to the test here in Nepal. We couldn’t seem to catch a break.

Bullocks of course. We were in one of the most beautiful parts of the world, we had each other and we were healthy and fit (enough). We peered into the beautiful Tibetan highlands and as we got higher and higher we awed at the sight of majestic peaks as the Singra Himal and the Buddha Himal.

Soaking it in

We decided to make our hikes a little shorter, giving us more time to soak up the mountain views. As we got higher we started to notice the difference with the Annapurna circuit. Besides the lack of other tourists, hot water and wifi, people were also different. Woman wore gorgeous Tibetan dresses and men and children also all dressed traditionally.

Fancy a shower?

One thing we didn’t particularly enjoyed was the tradition of not showering. People reeked as they walked past us and especially older people were covered in dirt. Their genuine toothless smiles still warmed our hearts. Presumably we didn’t smell much better since it had been a few days since our last shower. It was getting really cold here higher up in the mountains and we didn’t really fancy a cold shower either.

Mount Fishtail

After Namrung the valley widened and we truly entered the Buddhist culture area. Lho is one of the three bigger villages and at 3020 meter it was also the highest we could get. Beyond here there were no more teahouses open. From Lho we had an amazing view on the two peaks of the Manaslu. In the morning the white snow covered ridges turned to gold as the sun shone its first rays on Mount Fishtail. (Manaslu’s nickname thanks to the two peaks shaped as a fishtail.)

The village of Lho

On top of the hill of Lho lays a relatively new gompa (monastery), built for the many Tibetan refugees who come to live here. Lho is practically plastered to the Tibetan border and with a lot of special permits Tibetans can occasionally cross the border.

With our cramp-ons we climbed the icy steep path to the gompa, to find it almost deserted. There was one monk but all the others had also made their way down towards Kathmandu. Nevertheless, the view from here on Manaslu was even more spectacular so we took our time to enjoy and appreciate at what a special place we’d found ourselves yet again.

To road or not to road

With a positive mindset we started the hike back down again. Descending went a lot faster but definitely wasn’t easier. Our knees ached from all the stairs and we covered much more kilometers per day than before.

We talked and thought a lot about the road that was being build. Workers were using explosives and heavy machinery and soon the small villages would be accessible by car. It will probably drastically change the culture and hiking here won’t be the same. The small villages here had much more of a unique character than those along the Annapurna circuit.

A bad injury

The road will very likely generate more income for the villagers. More tourists will come with more money to spend. Soon enough you’ll be able to buy the same generic souvenirs we found everywhere in Nepal.

On our way down we also stumbled upon a local woman moaning in pain. The poor thing had tripped over a rock and broken her shin. She was lying there helpless and alone. Mayla rushed to the next village to get help. All the men had gone for the day to hunt and work, so she had to be carried by the women of the village. It was at least a one hour hike and they don’t have stretchers up there.

Professional care

Our guide explained that the doctor doesn’t come to the villages for a case like this. If she needed professional care, she had to be carried for another four hours. We were complaining about the pain in our knees from walking the rocky trail. But we were also complaining about the road being built, because it will change their local culture. This woman probably never got the same professional care we would get if we tripped and broke our leg. Our insurance covers a rescue helicopter to haul us to the best hospital in the country. This woman only needed a road.

Loss of identity

Something as simple as a road can drastically change the identity of a place. It can also drastically improve the lives of those who live there.

As UNESCO states: (…) A society’s culture is neither static nor unchanging but rather is in a constant state of flux, influencing and being influenced by other world-views and expressive forms. The current era of globalization (…) is having a homogenizing influence on local culture. While this phenomenon (…) has provided millions of people with new opportunities, it may also bring with it a loss of uniqueness of local culture (…) Balancing the benefits of integrating into a globalized world against protecting the uniqueness of local culture requires a careful approach. Placing culture at the heart of development policies (…) to invest in the potential of local resources, knowledge, skills and materials to foster creativity and sustainable progress. (…)

Sustainable tourism

Somehow the Nepalese government needs to take all those different cultures and traditions into consideration whilst modernizing the country. With tourism being the largest industry in Nepal, sustainable tourism could really make a big difference here. There is still a lot to learn about this subject, for us too. By going off the beaten track we hope to at least stimulate local economy.

Lakeside shopping

Globalization and modernization isn’t all bad. We had quite the laugh when we saw a woman in traditional clothing wearing a Santa’s hat. We saw here from the bus that would take us back to Pokhara. Back to our luxury hotel and our favorite restaurant. Back to the ugly generic shops all selling the same knock-off brands, providing all those people with an income.

Thank you Nepal

Nepal had been a challenging country, physically and mentally. We’ve learned about culture, about tourism, but also about ourselves. And after a total of four weeks adventuring in the Himalaya’s we were beat. We were leaving our bikes and the mountains behind for the beaches of southern India and Sri Lanka. Those mountains were getting too cold now anyways.

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22 February 2020
Cycling in Nepal – Bikepacking the Annapurna Circuit Trek

‘Haven’t you had enough after Georgia?’ Josh asked laughingly, when we told him about our plan of bikepacking the Annapurna Circuit Trek (ACT). One of the world’s most beautiful high altitude hiking trails. It winds through some of the world’s tallest mountains, with Annapurna I as the highest at 8.091 meter (26,545 feet).

But we’d come pretty far since our first attempt at a bikepacking route in the high Georgian Caucasus. With a full touring set-up we set off on the worst roads and steepest climbs. Of course we were never able to complete this route with our heavy set-up. It also might have been a bit ambitious for our first week bicycle touring ever. Even for the Pamir we had our doubts. Were we strong enough? Was it going to be too hard? And to be fair, sometimes it was. Then we just changed our plan. We took an extra rest day, scored a ride to the top of a pass or simply cried a little and then got on with it.

This time we were ready

But this time we felt a lot more sure about ourselves. One thing we had learned from our Georgian adventure is that weight matters. We stripped our bikes to the minimum. Robin had a 14 liter saddle bag and Sabina just a 7,5 liter frame bag. Somehow we had to fit enough warm clothes in our bags for the freezing temperatures at higher altitude. The highest point of the route is the famous Thorong La Pass at 5.416 meters (17,769 feet).

The total elevation gain of the entire circuit is more than 10.000 meter (32,810 ft) over just 380 kilometer (236 miles). That’s a lot of high numbers, and not many bicycle tourists who’ve completed this trail before us.

The adventurers bikepacking the Annapurna Circuit Trek

We were still hanging out with Ross and Paxton (Ugly Armadillo) and had somehow managed to convince them that riding this trek was a good idea. In Pokhara we found two new friends wo had the same crazy idea as us. Sam from Wales (CycleTouringSam) and Silas from Switzerland. With our brand new gang of six we were ready to take on this Himalayan adventure.

Sara and Andreas (Project Pedal Further) cycled the Annapurna Circuit a few weeks before we did. After some helpful tips about the route and what to pack we were ready to hit the gravel. See the route below if you’re planning on bikepacking the Annapurna Circuit Trek yourself.

Day 1: Pokhara (1.400m) to Sundarbazar (1.406m)

55 km, 1.195m, 4h 24m

Our gang was ready to finally hit the road. We rode on the main road for a couple of kilometers before we could take a turn, leading us to the small road along Begnas Lake. The lake was hidden to us behind a thick blanket of fog. But we weren’t too bothered, since we were so excited to finally start our adventure after a lot of preparations.

After a few kilometers Silas’ front tyre felt wobbly so he stopped to put in more air. He had gotten Ross’ old mountainbike tyre (Sam had the other one), but once the pressure was higher it didn’t quite fit in the fork any more. The only solution was too let some air out again, just enough to find the sweet spot where the tyre wouldn’t rub anymore. It slowed him down a bit, but that was fine on our behalf, since he’s a very fast cyclist anyway.

We rode through fields and small villages and had our first taste of some pretty steep climbs on dirt roads. Every now and then we would pass roadworks with big loud generators and excavators. We had to carry our bikes over the construction site and all the workers would start to giggle when we told them we were planning to cycle over the Throng La pass.

Our initial plan was to reach Besisahar on day one, but with all the delays we opted to stop in a small village called Sundarbazar, about 15 kilometers earlier. At the hotel Silas found out he also had to fix his rear tyre, just a simple flat this time.

Bikepacking the Annapurna Circuit Trek – Day 2: Sundarbazar (1.406m) to Syange (1.119m)

44 km, 1.476m, 4h 22m

The fog from the first day had cleared, so for the first time we had a good view on where we would soon ride. The Himalayas with their snow capped high peaks called upon us all. Besishahar was the last town we could stock up for a fair price. We bought a bunch of chocolate cookies, peanut butter and some dried fruits. Prices on the circuit are sky-high, and it rises simultaneously with the altitude. Understandable, since it’s not an easy task to get the goods up.

When we rode out of Besishahar we heard a loud ‘pop’. It was Silas’ rear tube (again). It almost seemed as this ride was doomed for Silas’. The previous three(!) times he had started the circuit, he had had to return due to mechanical issues with his bicycle. So when we all waited to get our permits checked, Silas’ raced by hoping they wouldn’t come after him. The officer asked us if he was our friend. We lied through out teeth and said we had never seen him before.

By now we were all praying for Silas to get through this whole trip with us. The same day the zipper of his small saddlebag broke, causing him to lose some tools. Plus the hook of his pannier broke off. He looked absolutely defeated, so we all cheered him on to stay motivated. That’s probably the best about cycling in a bigger group. You may slow each other down a bit, but you always have an entire cheer squad with you.

We cycled mostly on the road, which was a mix of gravel and some asphalt from time to time. It was going up all day, which was pretty though but definitely doable. When we reached the guesthouse our routine negotiation began. Thanks to Sabina’s strong negotiating skills we almost never had to pay for the room as long as we all had dinner at the guesthouse. The meals also got more expensive the higher we got. A dahl bat (typical Nepali dish with rice, lentil curry and vegetable curry) is usually around 100 rupees, here it was already 300 rupees.

Bikepacking the Annapurna Circuit Trek – Day 3: Syange (1.119m) to Dharapani (1.943m)

20 km, 1.042m, 2h 45m

From Syange we could choose an almost vertical muddy jeep trail or a narrow alley straight through the village and onto a hiking trail. Easy pick. It wasn’t long before we reached the road, which was even paved. Soon enough we could see why. The road clung against the winding rock face and rose a few hundred meters across the cliff. Most of us had to walk and even that was a strenuous task. At some point the tarmac made place for gravel again and even motor bikes couldn’t ride here. Them too had to push their heavy bikes uphill.

Along the way we were rewarded with beautiful waterfalls and a lovely hot spring. To reach it we had to walk down a narrow rocky staircase, but the water was a treat for our already sore muscles. When we arrived at our guest house for the day we all took even more care for us muscles, with some group yoga and stretches.

Bikepacking the Annapurna Circuit Trek – Day 4: Dharapani (1.943m) to Chame (2.630m)

17 km, 927m, 2h 32m

After Dharapani came the next checkpoint. And soon enough the environment started to change. The style of the houses changed a bit, and we saw the first wall with prayer wheels. Here houses were made of stone and everyone seemed to be preparing for winter. Locals were repairing their houses and chopping wood. Nature also changed drastically. Leaf forest made place for pine forrest and the vegetation was much thicker here. Since we had been climbing and climbing, we could see the tree line and the massive boulders rising above it. We even got a glimpse of the mighty Manaslu.

Just before Chame we passed a makeshift medical checkpoint. We all had our bodyworks checked. We were soon reaching the 3.000 meter mark, and from there you really start to feel the effects of the altitude. Luckily all our oxygen levels were superb and so was everyone’s blood pressure. The doc gave us all the clear to continue climbing.

It was a relatively short day, so we had some time to explore Chame. It’s a beautiful little old town, with some small shops and even a real coffeeshop. Cuddled up around the stove we enjoyed our cuppa together with some yak cheese. A combination that weirdly enough worked. Ross and Paxton bargained for some extra warm clothes in the shops and Sam went large on more yak cheese.

Day 5: Chame (2.630m) to Manang (3.530m)

30 km, 1.146m, 3h 39m

In the morning we planned to head to a local eatery for a budget proof breakfast. Sam had to fix something on his bike so he was a bit behind. We cycled past a pack of dogs, where one was barking viciously at a motor cyclist. We passed at a safe distance, but Sam hadn’t noticed the dog. Normally the dogs in Nepal don’t harm cyclists, but this one bit Sam in the leg as he walked past.

He had a rabies shot, but even then you still need to get the whole course of vaccinations. As luck would have it, Chame had a small hospital and this was the only town on this side of the pass where they had the vaccine in stock. It took some time for the doctor to arrive so Silas did a very professional job of dressing Sam’s wound. It looked more like a cut or a graze than a bite mark, so the doctor wrote ‘alleged’ dog bite on the form much to Sam’s displeasement. He felt pretty sure about exactly what had just happened to him.

As Sam was being taken care of, us and Paxton took a head start. Paxton was pretty annoyed by the bad road conditions. And it was hard work for us too. Without Sam, Silas and Ross we could cycle more in our own pace, with Robin in the lead. There was a grueling set of switchbacks over loose rocks and sand. Hikers were now going faster than us.

Afterwards came a downhill section over some very comfortable single track. That picked us all right up. We stopped for tea and a snack in Pisang, and just as we were about to leave Sam joined us. Ross and Silas had taken a detour through higher Pisang, following a mountain bike trail.

Just as the route on Komoot had predicted, the last part to Manang was nearly flat. It only got better, when we saw the first baked goods in the windows of the European style bakery’s. This felt like heaven. Chocolate croissants and fresh coffee right in the middle of the magnificent Himalaya’s. Prices were sky-high as well, but everyone was in for a treat so it was worth every single rupee.

Bikepacking the Annapurna Circuit Trek – Day 6 & 7: Manang (3.530m)

Manang was the perfect base for an acclimatization hike. There were a few treks to choose from, and the whole group split up for two days. Ross and Paxton hiked to the Ice lake, Silas cycled to Tilicho lake and Sam mostly relaxed in his room. We hiked to the Praken Gompa at nearly 4.000 meter to visit the Lama and receive a blessing to safely cross the Throng La pass.

In the evening everyone would sit around the fire place together, playing games and meeting other travelers. It was so terribly cold at this altitude and there was no heating in the rooms. We would warm our hands with the stones, that laid on the fire stove. Showering had to be done in daytime, since the water pipes would freeze solid, and not defrost until early in the afternoon. Nevertheless, it was a beautiful place to spend two days and recharge for the highest section of our trek.

Bikepacking the Annapurna Circuit Trek – Day 8: Manang (3.530m) to Yak Kharka (4.018m)

9 km, 411m, 1h 27m

Once we got above the 3.500 meter line, we agreed to not climb more than 500 meters per day. Sam had to ride back to Chame to get a follow-up shot after his dog bite. He and Silas would cycle down and back up to Yak Kharka all on the same day. We had a really short ride and even arrived before lunch.

Manang is the end of the road, so for the first part we had to carry our bikes over stairs and push up a very steep hill. But after that the trail was relatively easy. We could cycle most of it, and we passed a lot of hikers. They were all in disbelieve that we were going to cycle over the pass. They were also astonished by how little stuff we carried, compared to their huge backpacks. We were mostly wondering what the hell they could possibly all have in there.

In Manang we had met a group of mountain bikers, all on full suspension bikes and with porters to carry their stuff. Hell, they even had someone who cleaned their bikes! We met them again in Yak Kharka, and it was pretty funny to see their shiny cool bikes nicely lined up in comparison to our dirty and worn steel touring bikes dumped against the opposite wall. It both works we guess.

Day 9: Yak Kharka (4.018m) to Thorung Phedi (4.420m)

6 km, 313m, 1h 18m

Birthday cake for breakfast, because it was Ross’ 28th birthday! We all got two big slices but the surprise on Ross’ face was the biggest treat. Sabina woke up not feeling well due to the altitude. But the medicine we had brought worked pretty fast, so we could continue cycling after our healthy breakfast.

It was getting colder and colder, and some parts of the trail were covered in ice. It was pretty tricky to walk (read: slide) over it with a loaded touring bike. We all made it without landing on our butts and the rest of the track was about 30 percent cycling and 70 percent pushing. We had to pass a dangerous landslide area, where you could absolutely not stop to pause. The altitude was effecting our breathing so it was pretty brutal to push ahead. But seeing the abyss next to you and all the loose stones above you, was enough motivation to push through.

Once we had reached Thorung Phedi, we had a quick lunch and unloaded most stuff from our bikes. The next day we would go over the pass. It is too hard to do it all in one day, so we decided we would push our bikes up as far as we could get them today. At this altitude it’s also better to sleep lower than you have been that day, so it functioned as our acclimatization hike too.

The path is extremely steep from the very beginning, and we steadily worked our way up through a series of switchbacks. For every ten steps we had to take a pause and catch our breath. Unbelievably though, we still passed some hikers who were also struggling with the lack of oxygen in the thin air. We made it about a kilometer past high camp and locked our bikes up for the night. The sun had set behind the mountains and our fingers and lips were turning blue whilst we quickly but carefully walked back to our tea house.

Bikepacking the Annapurna Circuit Trek – Day 10: Thorung Phedi (4.420m) to Muktinath (3.800m)

21 km, 950m, 5h 8m

Most hikers start extremely early at 4am. They do so to avoid getting caught in the wind at the pass. The wind could bring all kinds of weather, but snow is what everyone dreads most. We decided to take our chances since we didn’t feel like freezing our asses off in the middle of the night and hiking in the dark. At 6am we packed our stuff and carried it back up to our solid frozen bicycles. The ‘long push’ had begun.

After the bridge there was one steep section, but the rest was quite gradual. This doesn’t mean it was easy, since there still was a lot of snow from a few days before and breathing was near to impossible. Sabina tried to play some music on her phone, but whilst taking it out of her pocket the battery immediately died because of the cold.

We had a major setback when we realized stuff had been stolen from our bikes during the night. Both our bib shorts were gone, plus Sabina’s arm warmers and some tools (even cookies). It’s just stuff, but it was so demotivating to have someone do you unjust when you are trying to accomplish something really big.

We tried to focus on the beauty of our environment and it did take our minds of it. Especially when we saw the first prayer flags waving in the distance. The otherwise completely white landscape was suddenly filled with beautiful bright colors from the hundreds of flags attached to the sign marking the highest point of the pass.

With our bike on one hand and holding each others hands with the other we walked the last part together. Both with tears of joy in our eyes. We had actually made it. Thorung La, five thousand, four hundred sixteen meters high. The highest hiking trail in the world. And we did it on our bikes.

After a lot of ego shots with the congratulation board we started our descend. Cycling was out of the question, it was way too steep. This side of the mountain luckily wasn’t covered in snow. Silas and Ross rode some parts, but Silas had to pay for it when we went over the edge. He was extremely lucky it wasn’t very high, but his bike didn’t survive the crash. The derailleur had completely snapped off. Going down he didn’t have much need for his drivetrain anyway, so he still rolled down most of it.

Paxton, Sam and us were much more cautious and carefully walked down slowly. At one point we could choose to continue on the narrow hiking trail or a rocky jeep track. We hoped the big rocks would soon turn into something rideable, but with our skinny tires we still had to walk the entire zigzagging road. Somewhere we missed a turn and we made a whole extra loop in the valley around Muktinath before we finally reached our destination of the day.

That afternoon we kept alternating between feeling excited and exhausted. After reuniting with Ross and Silas we celebrated our accomplishment with some exorbitantly priced plates of fries.

Day 11: Muktinath (3.800m) to Jomsom (2.713m)

21 km, 128m, 1h 20m

From the touristy village of Muktinath, we still had a long way back to Pokhara. We expected road conditions similar to the way up, so we were quite surprised when we suddenly found ourselves on a beautiful silky smooth set of asphalt switchbacks. It is still Nepal, so of course this didn’t last for very long. Soon enough we found ourselves back on washboard and sand, with busses racing by.

One of the busses picked up a rock with its wheels and smashed it into Robin’s front wheel and launched him over his bike. Luckily all the spokes held up, and after wiping off some dust and setting the handlebar straight again we were on our way without any real damage but a bruised ego.

We had planned to only have a lunch break in Jomsom, but we all had so many chores so we decided it would be the place we’d spend the night. We had to go to the police station to report our stolen goods, Silas’ wanted to see if he could fix his bike and Sam had to get the next rabies shot in this town the following day.

Silas’ went looking for a bike shop on Ross’ bike without any success. ‘What has he done now!’ we all thought when he came back carrying Ross’ bike instead of riding with a terribly guilty look on his face. He had managed to get the chain stuck and it took tree guys and 30 minutes to get it undone. Poor Silas, he felt so bad. His luck had really run out.

Bikepacking the Annapurna Circuit Trek – Day 12: Jomsom (2.713m) to Tatopani (1.189m)

47 km, 399m, 4h 9m

The following morning we waved Silas’ off when he and his broke bike got on the bus to Pokhara. A twelve+ hour ride over dirt roads pestered by landslides and road constructions. Sam even jokingly said he could race him to Pokhara and still win, hadn’t he had to get his injection. He was probably right. But this time he did actually make it over the pass, so we think his journey bikepacking the Annapurna Circuit Trek was still a success!

The first part of the road was uninspiring, grey boring buildings, road constructions, all on a brown dug-out road. It got more fun when we could take hiking trails trough small villages and cross the steel suspension bridges. We could take a massive shortcut through a dry riverbed and crossed a lot of small streams, which was heaps of fun too.

For the night we found a budget hotel with a room which was a bit unique for our (already not so high) standard. The room (5mx3m) was completely crammed with a total of seven beds, basically just turning the entire room into one big bed. It was big enough for all of us, it was cheap and it was quite hilarious so obviously we took it. And to be fair, we all slept like babies.

Bikepacking the Annapurna Circuit Trek – Day 13: Tatopani (1.189m) to Nayapul (1.070m)

58 km, 850m, 4h 28m

We rode past a roaring gorge with a suspension bridge above it and we couldn’t resist walking over it just for fun. The river its speed really showed how fast we were descending. The water carved its way straight through a narrow split in the rocks about fifty meters below us. The bridge also made for a great spot to see how the road we had been following was carved right into the cliff.

The last two days felt like riding back into civilization. Prices of our beloved masala chai en chowmein (noodle dish) turned back to normal. By now all our brakes were squeaking and you could hear the dirt in our chains grinding. Our bicycles needed a deep cleanse as soon as possible. Sabina’s chain even kept falling off when she tried to change gears. With only about one kilometer to go, we were not stopping to fix it. When it happened for the sixth time, she was ready to throw her bike into the river. Just one more day left to Pokhara. Only fifty kilometers and a small climb. Nothing really compared to what we had already done.

Bikepacking the Annapurna Circuit Trek – Day 14: Nayapul (1.070m) to Pokhara (1.400m)

44 km, 756m, 3h 24m

The last ride, the last climb and the last shitty road (for now). We drove straight ‘home’ to our Airbnb in Pokhara. We washed the dirt from our bodies, dropped our smelly clothes off at laundry and gave our bikes a good wash at the car wash. Sam, Paxton, Ross and us went to our favorite restaurant and Silas’ joined us later on for a big tub of ice cream. We had the whole gang back together for one last night.

After a couple days of rest Sam, Paxton and Ross rode off to Kathmandu. Silas had already made his way towards India to catch a train all the way back to Europe. We still had one more adventure waiting for us here in Nepal. We were trading our bikes for hiking boots. Our next Himalayan mission? The Manaslu Circuit trek.

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15 February 2020
Nepali tigers and more dangerous drivers

Nepal is a land of discovery with rich ancient cultures and eight of the ten highest mountains in the world. But we were not the first to discover this poor and simultaneously wealthy country. Tourism is the largest industry, pumping big bucks in the economy, but bicycle tourists are still quite rare.

Immediately as we had crossed the Indian-Nepali border we could notice a big difference. The constant honking wasn’t as apparent anymore. The road however, had taken a turn for the worse. There was no safe shoulder for us to cycle on anymore and cars were taking each other over like maniacs. Missing small children and entire family’s on motors by an inch every single time.

Arm’s length distance

To make sure cars pass us at a safe distance, we sometimes stick out our arm to the side when we feel a car is going to get too close. This usually directs them to pass at a safer distance, but here in Nepal it lead us straight to a police station.

An overtaking car raced by us so close, that it hit Robin making the side mirror smack into the side of the car. The car immediately made a u-turn and drove us of the road to force us to stop. The mirror had been damaged and they wanted us to pay. Still high on adrenaline from the clash, that could have been a serious life threatening accident, Robin threw quite the fit, and they decided to take their losses.

On trial in Nepal

At least that’s what we thought, until we realized we were being followed by men on motorcycles. They too forced us to stop, and wouldn’t let us continue. Luckily a local helped us, and told them to let us go. They kept following us however, so we decided we needed help from the police.

At the hotel we called the police, and they wanted us to follow them to the nearby station. A whole gathering had already formed of at least twenty men, sitting in a circle on chairs under a tree and even more surrounding the circle. There were three empty seats. One for Robin, one for Sabina and one for Ross, who would act as our ‘witness’.

A man in his fifties introduced himself as the ‘resident’ of the town. Next to him was another man, in one of the most tackiest suits we have ever seen. He was introduced as the owner of the car, apparently it was a lease. `The driver himself wasn’t at the meeting. The resident explained, the gathering was meant to find a solution, for what had happened. He had been told that Robin had punched the mirror of the car, causing it to break. We explained our side of the story, and that we were not going to pay for the damages. He was lucky we weren’t pressing charges for almost killing us!

Do we need help?

This kept going back and forth for half an hour or so, and we didn’t really feel like it was going anywhere. Only when we mentioned we would call our embassy for legal support, the situation changed drastically. The resident was a bit mad that we were threatening him with this. But threatening? Who was threatened in this whole situation. We were sitting here in a foreign country, with now about sixty or seventy people surrounding us, all speaking and shouting in a language we don’t understand. ‘Maybe it was time to call for help!’, we told him.

He understood. After that there was a lot of fierce negotiating in Nepali amongst the resident, the owner and some other people of whom we still had no idea who they were. Then all of a sudden we were told we could leave. The owner had wiped the smug look of his face. The losses were his to pay for. The police officers escorted us back to our hotel, and that was that. That’s how legal matters are solved in Nepal.

Bardia National Park

We were glad to see that the scenery was changing. The road side shops made place for jungle and the traffic and population was becoming less and less dense. We were entering the region of Bardia National Park . Most people visit Chitwan National Park, due to its proximity to Pokhara and Kathmandu. So Bardia is a little less crowded.

It’s said that chances of spotting a tiger are also bigger in Bardia, and that’s exactly what we wanted to do. We pitched our tents in the jungle garden of a small resort in the park. Our guide prepared us for our walking safari we would do the next day. He showed us a map of where we were going. He pointed at a region and said ‘Here we don’t go anymore, you know. Because of what happened.’

Tiger attacks

We didn’t for a matter of fact. So he explained: ‘An elephant rider was killed just a few days ago, when he was cutting grass for his elephant. There is an old tiger that regularly attacks people’. Good to know! But he insisted we would be fine. It was more elephant bulls and rhino’s we needed to worry about. And never mind the leopards that visit town every night. A bit scared for the upcoming day and night, we went to sleep in our tent. Just before we turned the lights down, the guides who were camping next to us for our safety shouted through the bushes ‘If anything, make big sound’. You bet we would make a big sound.

The next morning we assembled with our guides, armed with nothing more than a wooden stick. As soon as the gates of the park opened we walked in full of adrenaline from our excitement. We spotted deer, saw beautiful tropical birds, a rhino in the river from a distance and kept seeing fresh tiger tracks. The tigers themselves however, hidden from sight.

A tiger’s tush

We waited for what seemed to be hours in a watch tower and Robin possibly saw a tigers behind far away, as it just walked into the high grass. After that, we tracked the tigers full of hope for a better glimpse. But unfortunately this was all we were gonna get. On our search we did see a few big crocodiles sunbathing in the river, monkeys slinging from tree to tree and all these different kinds of birds, singing and warning each other for danger that lays ahead. It was an amazing day. No tigers but definitely a lot of thrills.

Our surprise was big, when out of the blue Josh appears when we were having breakfast the next day. He was supposed to be cycling in India, not in Nepal. His wild idea of taking a boat down the Ganges had made place for a final ride to Nepal, from where he would fly home. We even starred in his coming home-video inspired by Forrest Gump.

Butwal, Tansen, Pokhara

Josh joined us and Ross and Paxton for two days until we turned North towards Pokhara. Josh would ride straight to Kathmandu. We said our final goodbyes for the fourth time asking ourselves where we would run into him next. It’s great how you can meet people you already know in the most random places, totally unexpected. You’re never really alone for a long time.

The ride from Butwal to Pokhara has to be one of our favorites so far. At first the road seemed like hell. A narrow dusty sand road, packed with massive trucks roaring past the abyss. But later the road became wider, paved and the trucks seemed to disappear. The climbs were also getting feistier and rolled up and down past green valleys and fields. Tansen was our favorite town on route to Pokhara. The town lays higher than the rest of the route and requires some extra climbing to reach. But the steep streets and lovely view made it all worthwhile.

Our next adventure

After Tansen we enjoyed the scenery for every single mile. But we were also looking forward to reach Pokhara and rest in our Airbnb. The feeling we got, when we for the first time could see the city and its adjoining Phewa lake was indescribable.

By now we had also convinced ourselves and Ross and Paxton that we were going to take on a massive adventure. From Pokhara we were going to cycle the Annapurna circuit. A once in a lifetime experience, but one that also kept us hunkering for more.

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1 February 2020