When we moved to the south of Sweden, we set out to discover as much of the country as possible. Two years later, we are still discovering new places. This time we headed north to go gravel cycling in Dalsland, a province in Västra Götaland famous for its beautiful lakes and forests.

Dalsland is known as “Sweden in Miniature”, and has all the best things Sweden has to offer. There are lots of fun things to do, such as water sports, hiking, kayaking, and, of course, cycling! The countryside is a gorgeous mix of lakes, rivers, forests, and fields, and the quiet gravel roads take you to charming little towns, impressive country houses, and even castles.

West Sweden invited us to travel around Dalsland and tipped us on the best places for cyclists in the area, and we’ve got to say—we are absolutely blown away by the beauty of Dalsland!

Gravel cycling in Upperud, Dalsland

From Malmö, it was a 5-hour drive to Upperud 9:9, where we spent the first night of this gravel getaway. The hotel is set in an old grain silo and the five unique rooms are nestled into the old structure. Kerstin, the owner of the hotel, welcomed us with open arms and swiftly sent us on our way with a packed lunch for the road. We went cycling on gravel roads through the forest, and came across many beautiful sights along the way.

Back at Upperud 9:9 we had the premier of the newly built sauna! The big glass window offers a relaxing view over the lake, and we watched the birds as we wound down. In the sauna, we also met the other guests. One family had been hiking the Pilgrimsleden and two friends were there on a kayaking trip.

After the sauna, we took a plunge in the cold lake to cool off and prepared ourselves for the 3-course dinner in the hotel’s restaurant. On Saturday, the café is open to everyone, so if you’re cycling in the area, this is the place to fika!

Dalsland canal

The next morning it was time to move to our second Dalsland destination, and after a beautiful Swedish breakfast buffet we loaded our bikes into the car. Along the way we passed the Dalsland aqueduct. It was fascinating to see the spectacular meeting of road, rail and waterway. We love to travel over gravel, but we can definitely picture ourselves paddling along the Dalsland canal too!

Gravel cycling in Dalsland

A twisting and turning road carried us through the forest to Dalsland’s Activities located in Steneby Prästgård in the heart of the Dalsland region. The perfect starting point for a beautiful gravel bike ride. We cycled parts of the Unionsleden, a 350 kilometre long cycle path which takes its travellers from Moss in Norway to Karlstad in Sweden. We rode on a pleasant mix of sparsely trafficked country roads, gravel paths and cycle trails.

Tip: contact Dalsland’s Activities and ask them about renting a gravel bike!

Miles flew by as we enjoyed the breathtaking views over the lakes and waved to the residents we passed by who were tending their gardens to prepare their homes for summer.

We stopped for a hearty lunch at Not Quite, a former paper mill turned into a cultural centre. The café is run by two Belgian sisters, which explains the not so Swedish ‘Uitsmijter’ on the menu. As two Dutchies, we could not pass on such a familiar dish.

Newly refuelled, we continued our ride. After a testing tarmac climb, we dove into the forest via an almost hidden gravel road. The best thing about going up, is that you get to go down again afterwards. We raced and slid over perfect gravel roads, and the technical sections kept us focused on the terrain.

Back at Dalsland’s Activities, we got some ice cream and rode the last 800 meters to where we’d spend the night. It was safe to say that our jaws hit the floor, when we saw where we were sleeping.

Sleeping in a glass cabin

On the shore of Lake Iväg are four unique glass cabins, and one of these was ours for the night. Completely secluded from the outside world, we got to enjoy life in the forest, with the comfort of a big bed, cosy blankets and a beautiful sitting area on a wooden deck over the water. The chef from the activity centre had prepared a barbecue, perfect for two hungry cyclists like ourselves.

If the glass cabin itself wasn’t special enough, we got to use of the wood-fired hut tub as well. After a steaming hot bath, we cosied up in the cabin and watched the treetops gently sway in the wind. After the sun had set, we watched the full moon rise over the lake, casting a long white shimmer on the surface of the water.

Dalsland has so much to offer for cyclists and other outdoor enthusiasts. Luxurious stays like ours ensure that you go back home fully recharged. Cyclists who crave more adventure and have strong legs can discover this beautiful region by bikepacking and sleep in one of the many wind shelters.

Gravel cycling in Dalsland is truly an unforgettable experience. Visit westsweden.com for more inspiration.

Sweden’s gravel calendar starts in March with the Dirty Halland: A 165 kilometre gravel ride, organised by Team CYKLAMERA. We rode the 2022 edition, and it was a day filled with sun, gravel and climbs: a success formula for a first-class gravel event.

The organisers create a brand new route each year, and this year’s ride was fast and scenic. The start was in Steninge, a lovely little coastal town located 20 kilometres northwest of Halmstad. From a logistics point of view we opted to rent a car for the day. Like real Swedes we drove a (rented) Volvo station car to Steninge. With our 3T Exploro gravel bikes stacked in the trunk

Grusfest for every type of rider

On the road we already spotted some gravel bikes on cars with bike carriers, a telling sign that we were in for a big group ride. No one counted, but the organisers estimated that over 200 riders started, divided in three categories: Muddy (20 km/h), Dirty (24 km/h) and Dusty (28 km/h). We optimistically categorised ourselves in the Dirty group.

At the start line we reconnected with friends that we met over the last two years of grus grinding all over the country. We started the ride with a peloton of about 75 riders. A short bit of tarmac, and then the first gravel section of the day. As in every group ride, the pace was high from the get go. Combine that with a bumpy gravel surface and the water bottles started shooting off bikes and onto the road. 

Post-COVID gravel cycling

We chose to let the big group go and ride at our own pace. Two weeks before the event we both tested positive for COVID, so we weren’t in the best shape to begin with. This also explains why you mainly see Sabina in most of the pictures, and no big groups of cyclists. The fun thing about an event with so many participants, is that you almost always catch up with someone, or they will catch up with you.

The 2022 Dirty Halland route

The Dirty Halland 2021 went through a lot of dense forests, whereas the 2020 route reminded us a bit of Skåne. Rolling hills, open fields, and agricultural lands. But way less populated than our Southern province. The route included typical Swedish scenery, with needle leaf trees, icey blue lakes and rocky ‘grusväger’.

One of the prettiest sections starts at the 65 kilometer mark. We crossed a national road and then a long gravel section began. Team Cyklamera made a Strava segment of this section. It’s 9 kilometres in length, but don’t start too hard along the lake. The segment includes two small but tough climbs in Yttra Bergs Naturreservat.

We also loved the section on the Ätranbaneleden, between Ullared and Fegen. The trail goes over old railway embankments. Not exactly an easy rolling bike lane, but this challenging double-track gravel road is the reason why you bring a gravel bike and not a road bike.

Resupply at the fika stop

Team CYKLAMERA made sure that bonking wasn’t an option by including an amazing bakery halfway on the route. Vallsäters Skafferi, after 84 kilometres in Ullared, was the perfect place for a fika break with coffee and pastries. Ullared is also home to Gekås, which for us makes it one of the weirdest places in Sweden. Gekås is a super store with a shopping area of over 30.000 square metres. People from all over the country come here to shop in bulk. The area even includes a bungalow park, a camping area and Sweden’s biggest parking lot.

Finishing 160 km

Halfway through the Dirty Halland gravel ride the finish still felt very far away, especially with the headwind that played a small, but still a present part. Our physical condition had taken a noticeable hit from COVID. But as soon as we turned southwards, our spirits got a pick up from the tailwind and we reached the finish in what felt like no-time. We might not be very fast, but we can steadily ride very far – which happens to be exactly what we’re training for!

Back in Steninge, we were welcomed by Robin and Gustavo from Team CYKLAMERA with an ice cream followed by a big meal. Big thanks to everyone on the team for organising this amazing ride. By the way, if you rode the Dirty Halland this year and are missing a glove, we handed it over to the organisation. And if you lost a banana because it fell out of your pocket, sorry but we ate it. 

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We all know that in cycling you don’t just train your body, you train your mind too. And there is no better way to train your mind than gravel cycling in rain. Add some snow, hail and a brutal headwind. Some might even call it a day in hell, which it just happened to coincide with.

For us, it wasn’t cobblestones that made April 11th a day of torture. It was the hail in our faces and the mud grinding between our teeth. In the weekend of (the postponed) Paris-Roubaix the Rapha Clubhouses and collaborating cafés have created rides all over the world. The routes are all inspired by the French pavé, (cobblestones) but since Sweden lacks these we ride over gravé instead.

The ultimate rain cycling gear test

The route that Malmö’s Rapha café Musette had planned for us consisted of gravel, trails, fields, rubble and thanks to the rain, tire-sucking mud. After sharing an inspirational story on our Instagram account, upselling cycling in the rain the day before our own ride we should’ve seen it coming. Time to practice what we preached.

One of the positives sides we talked about was getting to test your rain gear. We learned that smart layering is really important. Robin learned it the hard way, because after only ten kilometres even his base layer was soaked. The strong west wind was doing its uttermost best to keep us from picking up speed. We were hit with a mix of wet snow, rain and hail. And hail hurts when it hits your cold face.

How long until you cave?

If you follow us on Strava you may have already seen that we are both training a lot in preparation for an ultra race. We are both getting stronger, but Robin has a lead on Sabina. So when we cycle together, the headwind and loose gravel climbs launch Sabina to heart rate zone 3 where Robin comfortably stays in the lower region of zone 2. Because she was working so hard Sabina didn’t get that cold, even when wet. Robin did.

About 32 kilometres in we had to stop for a short snack break. With our big gloves completely soaked up by the rain, it was almost impossible to get at our bars and banana. When balling our hands in a fist we could feel the water running down our sleeves. Getting the gloves back on again proved to be even harder. The inner fleece lining stuck against our skin while we wiggled our cold fingers back in. After a few very silent moments Robin finally said it out loud: ‘I don’t want to ride the entire loop’.

Enjoying cycling in the rain

Here we can insert a bunch of excuses, explaining why shortening the route was the only reasonable and logic thing to do. But we won’t. Instead, we chose to not turn straight around, but make another little loop on Häckeberga’s gravel roads. 

We were surprised by the biggest herd of deer we have ever seen. It must’ve been hundreds, and they all crossed the road right in front of us. As we slipped and slide over the muddy single trails everything got covered in mud. It must have been the most comic thing to see. By now we had also got used to the excruciating sound of the dirt sanding down our chain and breaks. Knowing that we had to endure the cold not four, but only two more hours also helped cheer up our mood a bit.

Strengths and weaknesses

This ride really pointed out our strengths and weaknesses. Sabina is mentally strong and is good at keeping a positive mindset. Even when the road ahead isn’t looking all peaches and cream. Physically Robin has the advantage where he isn’t just stronger, he can also push his body a bit further. 

Finding your weaknesses is an amazing opportunity. It gives you space to grow and become a better cyclist and human being. But to be able to see them, from time to time, you do have to put yourself through a Day in Hell.

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We have been on long rides before, but a 160+ kilometre gravel route? That’s something new. Last Friday we rode the Dirty Halland, and we can highly recommend it to every gravel fanatic that is looking for a good challenge. With tired legs, but a camera roll filled with awesome shots we share with you our ride report.

The Dirty Halland 2021

The Dirty Halland was initially planned as an event, but we all know how small the chances are of those happening these days. Luckily organizer Team Cyklamera decided to change the setup and released the route for everyone to cycle it independently. The route consisted of an extremely well put together combination of hard packed gravel roads, a few punchy climbs and some single trails to keep the mind sharp.

Gravel, sandy single track and rocky climbs

We started the route at the train station in Halmstad and climbed our way out of the city. Cold muscles and steep gradient, a perfect way to start every ride. After about six kilometres we finally hit the gravel in Sperlingsholm, a nice little teaser as turned out. After another short stretch on asphalt, we wouldn’t see much of that for a while. From here on it was gravel, sandy single track and rocky climbs almost all the way.

Our long distance cycling technique

Our longest route to this date had been about 120 kilometres, so we knew we needed a bit of a strategy. Something that had worked really well for us in India, was breaking up the long rides in blocks. We decided on 25 kilometres and breaks timed at 5 minutes each. The first break happened to be at a beautiful little lake, the Bredaredssjön.

Refuelling in Torup

Up until this point we had been fuelling on nuts, energy and candy bars, so we were quite happy when we came to Torup the first town that had an actual supermarket. We always struggle a bit to find which foods are right on long rides like these, so we usually just pick whatever we crave for that moment. So not exactly your healthy well-balanced diet.

Sabina’s shopping list

• chicken teriyaki wrap
• banana (which she didn’t eat)
• donut
• protein chocolate milkshake
• triple shot espresso energy drink

Robin’s shopping list

• pulled pork wrap
• iced cappuccino
• Coca-Cola
• salami chips
• 2 kex chocolate bars (which he didn’t eat)
• candy
• bottle of water (which was unnecessary since there turned out to be a water tap next to us)

Gravel cycling in Biskopstorps Nature reserve

The part through Biskopstorps Nature reserve was yet another highlight of this route. After a long climb, with a short breather to pet the curious cows, we descended all the way to Kvibille. Here we bought a sugary drink, to get us through the last stretch. Blue hour had set in and Sabina was at the end of her rope. With just 20 more kilometres to push through, Robin somehow felt stronger now at the end than at the start of the ride.

Cycling in the dark

We had calculated that we would ride in the dark, but we didn’t have a lot of experience with that yet. So a technical descent in the nature area just east of Gullbrandstorp became a whole new challenge. Our torches were bright enough to light up all the tree roots, potholes and big rocks on the trail. But our tired minds were not sharp enough to catch all of them in time. So we carefully made our way down and bumped and hopped over the mud piles and rocks that we missed catching on time, but our chunky tires could easily handle for us.

Making our way down we could see the city lights of Halmstad in the distance. The finish line was now literally in sight. We crossed the farmlands on the last stretches of gravel, and before we knew it we recognized the road along the open air museum Hallandsgården which we had passed this morning at the start of the route.

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Farawayistan has always been the place where our passion for bikepacking and storytelling come together. We have loved to show you the world from our handlebar perspective, and took you on a grand adventure, all the way from the Republic of Georgia to India and Indonesia. 

Regular readers may have noticed that our website recently got a makeover. A sleeker look and a brand new logo. That’s because from now on we would like to add something new to our storytelling and talk about ancient Egyptian archeology. 

Just kidding. We’re still doing what we love most – sharing our cycling adventures. But we are adding another aspect to it. We are entering the world of ultra endurance cycling.

Come along on our journey

We may have some experience cycling in challenging conditions, but we’re total newbies in the world of ultra-cycling. So we thought you might find it interesting to come along on our journey to the race. If you’ll have us, we will share our thoughts, experience, progress and setbacks and we’ll talk about anything to kit lists, training and bike fits. 

Those who come here just for the pretty pictures, no worries we got you too. We will still be posting about our weekend adventures and bikepacking trips. Those are luckily also part of our preparation. Subscribe to our newsletter and follow us on Instagram and we’ll take you along. With a little bit of luck and a whole lot of hard work all the way to the finish line in Agadir.

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