Tag: indonesia

  • Biking Bali

    Biking Bali

    Bali is probably not the first destination that comes to mind when planning a cycling trip. Most people only know Bali as a hip and trendy beach destination. But this Indonesian paradise island has so much more to offer than cocktails at the beach and selfies at rice terraces. The rich Hindu culture, nature’s beauty around every corner, friendly locals, amazing gastronomy and the steepest climbs you’ll ever ride.

    We arrived on Bali when the Covid-19 pandemic was about to hit the world hard. The situation on the island was still relatively calm. We had big plans to discover every region; hike-a-bike the active volcanos, cruise along the coast line and explore the undiscovered northern part. In reality we only went out for day trips and a few overnighters.

    Bikepacking Bali

    We stopped touring

    The Indonesian government hadn’t proclaimed a lockdown, but it felt wrong to freely travel around. With genuine biketouring out of the question we still felt extremely lucky to be able to go out and ride our bicycles in the area around our base, Ubud. Riding in this area made us fall in love with the island. It’s pretty much a perfect cycling destination if you ask us.

    Riding on Bali

    Riding on Bali is extremely challenging. The tarmac may be perfect everywhere but temperatures are boiling and the humidity is insane. Monsoon rain showers are a common thing. They come out of nowhere and leave you completely drenched. We weren’t complaining since it’s the perfect way to cool down.

    Since Bali is a volcanic island the roads are ridiculously steep. Most roads are north-south oriented, however there are east-west connections too. Riding these usually means conquering deep gorges and fighting your way back up on inclines well over 20 percent.

    The scenery makes every drop of sweat worthwhile. Starting at black colored volcanic sand at the beach you’ll pass bright green rice paddies and eventually make it to higher altitudes with magnificent sights on active volcanos.

    Local cycling community

    There is a small cycling community on Bali. Especially in the early morning we saw young kids cruising around on mountain bikes. Further inland you can find some pretty hardcore bike parks located between the lava fields. Pickup trucks with downhill bikes in the back are a common sight. In the lively capital of Denpasar there is a cool bike shop called The Bike Shop Bali. They carry a lot of cool brands and have quality materials if you might need spare parts.

    Warungs everywhere

    Another great thing about cycling on Bali is the abundance of warungs (local shops). Gado Gado, Nasi Goreng, Satay, fresh coconuts and of course Kopi Bali. Every local warung can fix you up, and usually for a very decent price too. A good thing, because cycling on Bali burns a lot of calories and refueling is super easy this way. Indonesian and Balinese food in particular is amazing. 

    Perfect little Ubud

    Ubud was the perfect base for us. Getting lost in the small streets of the family compounds where the aromatic smell of sweet incense fill your senses. It’s central and within five minutes you are surrounded by rice paddies. The layers upon layers of green rice terraces are broken by weaving palm trees. Ubud also tends to be a few degrees cooler than the concrete jungle of the southern beach towns. 

    What bike to bring

    There are roads for every type of bike on Bali. Take your full suspension mountain bike on a spin in one of the bike parks. Race up the steepest climbs on your road bike or pack your panniers as light as possible and tour around the island as soon as it’s possible again.

    The amazing scenery combined with the excellent craftsmanship gave us a real creative boost. Taking some time away from touring also provided us with the opportunity to think about how we want to continue our travels. Instead of viewing this pandemic as a blockage on our way we seek new paths. Our new path is now leading us to Sweden, but to Bali we will someday definitely return.

    Follow all our adventures on Instagram.

  • COVID-19 update (we found a home on Bali to stay safe)

    COVID-19 update (we found a home on Bali to stay safe)

    Self-isolate. That’s the new way of life these days. In our last COVID-19 update we told you how we fled from India. Our next move was finding a safe place in case of an outbreak, which according to some is just a matter of time. We are happy to say that we found a home to stay safe on Bali  This is how we are planning to keep safe.

    Can you imagine roaming free, cycling wherever you want. Doing everything in your own pace with no-one telling you what to do? Sounds like a dream right? Well, we were living it. This pretty much was our life for the last eight months. And then all of a sudden it was over.

    #stayhome when you don’t have a home

    And that’s okay. We needed to figure out what #stayhome was going to mean for us not having a home. Going back to the Dutch mayhem didn’t appeal to us. We just had to find a place to live in a country where we’d never before. A little scary, but mostly exciting. We knew that Ubud and Canggu where popular places for digital nomads, so these became our two options.

    Friends of ours were staying in Ubud, so we went here first. And it was love at first sight. We absolutely fell in love with Ubud and it’s very apparent Balinese culture. The architecture, the traditional music, the smiles and the friendliness of the Balinese. It warmed our hearts.

    No Canggu

    We visited Canggu too, but we just never got the same vibe there. If high-end co-working spaces with impeccable design are your thing. Or you love to strut in hip beach clubs and drink cocktails after a day of surfing on perfect waves is in your alley, go to Canggu! We think that we just aren’t that hip any more. Are we getting old?!

    It also feels wrong to sit in a communal working space in these times. Before we had the ability to prepare our own food, we had to go out to eat. You wouldn’t believe how many dirty looks Sabina got when she was coughing because she choked on a delicious Balinese green pancake. It was definitely time to start practice social distancing.

    Our new home

    We wanted a place where we’d be happy to be locked down in and from where we’d be able to work on all the amazing stories and footage from the last eight months. And boy did we find it. We found a home to stay safe on Bali. It’s a gorgeous villa with a loving family. We have a swimming pool, a lush tropical garden and super fast internet. We’re surrounded by rice fields yet close (10 mins cycling) to the supermarket and other necessities. We even get housekeeping every other day.

    The crisis behind COVID-19

    Do we need this luxury? No. Does it do anyone any good? Yes. The pool maintenance guy who just had a baby a few days ago gets to keep this job. The cleaning ladies can continue receiving a pay cheque and so does the gardener.

    We see more people getting in extreme financial trouble than people actually getting sick. This causes a lot of stress which can easily result in mental health disorders. This can have a great effect on the physical health too. So we try to choose wisely where we spend our money. Is it going to those who need it?

    Spend your money wisely

    Another example is the fruits and veggies we get home delivered. The farmers on Bali were preparing for high season, but with the corona crisis restaurants are not buying. A local initiative helps these farmers and buys the produce for fair prices and makes boxes for people to get delivered to their homes. 

    I’m sure there are a lot of local initiatives in your area too. Just ask around. We’d love to hear which ones you are inspired by or involved with in the comments!

    Stay calm

    Also don’t forget to think about mental wellbeing. We found a home to stay safe on Bali where we can practice meditation, exercise (indoors if necessary), try new recipes and allow ourselves to relax without scrolling on social media or reading the news. Instead, check out these awesome video’s we found!

    Stay safe, stay sound. If you want to talk, we are here.

    Follow all our adventures on Instagram.

  • COVID-19 UPDATE (how to keep a calm mind)

    COVID-19 UPDATE (how to keep a calm mind)

    We wanted to share how we are dealing with this whole crazy COVID-19 situation. We have fallen back on plan B, C, D, hell even plan Z. We tried to not let corona get the best of us. Here’s what happened and what we’ve learned from it. Spoiler, we’re not coming home (yet).

    We were cycling in India towards Myanmar when shit really hit the fan. Most countries including India had gotten their first cases, but up till then it all seemed quite controllable. When the outbreak in Italy got out of control, a lot of governments decided on taking harsh measurements.

    A lot can change, and it did

    Pretty soon India also closed its border with Myanmar. At this point we figured it would be a few days. It would still take us three weeks to ride to the border, so we just carried on. We created a WhatsApp group with other cyclists heading or already at the same border to keep each other up to speed.

    Our reasoning behind continuing? A lot can change in three weeks, no need to panic and drastically change our plan. And we had a back-up plan, which was to fly from a city not far from the border to the nearest international airport. 

    How to keep a calm mind

    (Which is very hard in these unsure times for everyone, including us)
    • Don’t look at your phone or the news first thing in the morning. Have breakfast first
    • Limit the time you spend on social media, news or WhatsApp
    • Try meditation, the Calm app works really well for us
    • Ride your bicycle (or try a different form of exercise indoors, if you’re not allowed to)
    • Ask your friends and family not to share rumors. Only look at official statements regarding the ever-changing situation
    • Try to live in the moment and appreciate what’s in front of you (reading tip: The Power of Now by Eckhart Tolle)

    As we were cycling we kept having a feeling of unease. Robin had already started to be a little fed-up by India. We had been in this and in its neighbouring countries since November, and it’s quite an intense place to cycle. We talked a lot with our friends, our family and of course with each other.

    Evacuate

    When we woke up to the news that the WHO had officially declared COVID-19 a pandemic and the US had closed it’s border we knew we had to take action. We did not want to get stuck in India so we had to evacuate.

    We were planning on flying to Bali from Myanmar, so we decided we would just do that now instead of two months later. We would rather be stuck in Bali than in India.

    Cooch Behar > Guwahati > Kolkata > Kuala Lumpur > Bali

    The nearest airport, Guwahati was 300 kilometres away, so we cycled to the train station, only to learn that they wouldn’t let us bring our bikes on the train. So instead we took a taxi that would take us there. There were still ten flights every day, so we decided we would buy our tickets as late as possible. We still didn’t have boxes for the bicycles and things were changing so rapidly now, we didn’t want to lose money on a cancelled or missed flight.

    Key in an emergency situation: make sure you are as flexible as possible. Don’t financially or emotionally tie yourself up to one solution. Be ready to change your plan but think it through first, if possible talk about it with someone who is neutral. (Chances are big your family is panicking the fuck out too, so maybe not only talk to them.)

    Flying with bicycles

    First thing the next morning we went to the nearest bicycle store (we had made sure our hotel was close to the shop) and luckily they had boxes for us. We packed our bikes in three boxes, they somehow never seem to fit in two. Then we were off looking for a taxi. This we should’ve done beforehand, because we couldn’t find one big enough. After two hours of negotiating, waiting, negotiating again, and a lot more waiting we were finally on our way to the airport.

    At the ticketing counter of IndiGo the nice lady assured us that we had to buy our tickets now and could add three pieces of sports equipment at the check-in counter for €30 a piece. The flight would leave in 50 minutes, but that was plenty of time according to her. Guess again. We were only allowed to take two pieces of sports equipment, and they wanted to charge us the excess baggage fee over the other box. This would sum up to €250 for the three boxes instead of the €90 that we had been promised.

    At first, we got mad. Then we realized the attendant was really trying to help us when we said we didn’t have that much money. Check-in had officially already closed so all the attendants were trying to figure out how they could help us without us paying an exorbitant fee. After a lot of calculating they came up to €95 which we gladly accepted. Another attendant rushed us to our gate, and we prayed our bicycles would get the same rapid guidance to the plane.

    Stay calm

    From Kolkata, we planned to fly to Denpasar (Bali, Indonesia) with a layover in Kuala Lumpur. We had waited with booking the flight until we had our bicycles with us again. Luckily they had made it too. We checked that Malaysia would still let us transit and Indonesia would still let us in and bought our tickets at the Air Asia counter.

    The nice young lady here assured us that we could add the boxes at the check in. After our previous mishap, she checked it twice and confirmed. It was cheaper to book the tickets online, and we couldn’t add three pieces of sports equipment on the website, so we had to do it at check in. 

    Of course the same problem occurred as in Guwahati. But this time they wanted to charge us €1400. We were both exhausted, stressed and really upset with the whole situation. Luckily Robin found it in himself to stay calm and talk to the people who were able to help us.

    Losing our cool

    The manager Robin was talking to was acting like a real jerk. Whenever someone with a suit and a tie walked past he would just abandon the conversation to shake hands and say hello. In the meantime we were losing our cool over there.

    A lot of meditation practice helped Robin keep his cool and in the end we found a loophole. The woman at ticketing had forgotten to mention some term that applied, but we believe that the true moments when things suddenly changed was when we mentioned we have a website with 30k views.

    The price tag of our evacuation

    Our next two flights went pretty smooth and Sabina’s father had arranged a pick-up and hotel in Bali. You have no idea how relieved we were when we had finally made it there.

    The price tag of our evacuation

    Taxi Cooch Behar – Guwahati     € 80
    Flight Guwahati – Kolkata € 80
    Fee for the bicycles €250 €95
    Flight Kolkata – Denpasar € 300
    Fee for the bicycles €1400 €150

    This is actually not too bad and probably a pretty good price considering all the last minute bookings.

    When life gives you lemons

    Meditation has helped us a lot in dealing with this. It has allowed us to stay calm, breathe, think and act. Our cycling experience also helped us cope. When you are cycling up a hill with an extreme headwind on a road that is literally falling apart, one might also panic. How am I ever going to do this, this is never going to end. But then the wind turns, or you reach the top and the road suddenly improves. And you realize, nothing is permanent. Everything changes, thus gets better in the end. Yes it might get worse before that, but knowing that it will always get better gets us through hard times.

    Our current plan

    Things are still changing extremely fast. Our plan was to do a border run to Singapore when our 30-day visa expires. We can still fly to Singapore, we only have to oblige to the 14 days stay home notice the Singaporean government has put in place. Getting back to Indonesia is a bit trickier now, since they have stopped issuing visas on arrival, and you now need a visa provided by an embassy together with a health declaration issued by your home country. These measurements are in effect at least until April 20th. There is talk of emergency visa permits, but we don’t know if we are eligible for this. We still have three weeks left on our visa, so we will just see what the situation is like by then.

    We realize that this pandemic is not to be taken lightly, and we follow as much of the social distancing safety advice as possible. But we are at a beautiful place, and we are going to enjoy every second of it. For all we know our trip might be over in three weeks. It would be a waste if we’d spend these days worrying about things we cannot change.

     

    Give us a ring or shoot a message

    Our minds are with our families and our friends back home. And also with all the amazing cyclists we have met along the way or have got to know on Instagram. If anyone needs someone to talk to, we are here. Ask us anything you want, we’d love to think things through with you or simply offer a listening ear.

    Follow all our adventures on Instagram.