Farawayistan

Author: Robin & Sabina

Road and Gravel Cycling in Lysebotn – The Ultimate Adventure Guide

Lysebotn, a small village nestled at the end of the Lysefjord in Norway, is a hidden gem for cycling enthusiasts. The area offers a unique combination of climbs, breathtaking fjord views, and remote gravel paths. Whether you’re drawn by the challenging climb or gravel cycling in Lysebotn on lesser-known backroads, Lysebotn provides an unforgettable outdoor experience. This guide will take you through the must-do rides and practical tips for planning your trip.

Conquering the Lysebotn Climb: A Cyclist’s Dream

Lysebotn is perhaps best known for its iconic climb, a must-ride for any serious cyclist. The road winds up from the fjord in a series of 27 hairpin turns, rising to an elevation of 932 meters over 8.9 kilometers. This climb is a true test of endurance and skill, with an average gradient of 10%. The Lysebotn climb is famous in the cycling world, revered for its challenging switchbacks. Those who reach the top are rewarded with the stunning views of Lysefjord from the Kjerag Cafe & Restaurant Øygardstøl.

The Hidden Gem: Gravel Cycling in Lysebotn

But while the climb is the star attraction, real adventurers go gravel cycling in Lysebotn just north of the fjord. Accessible via a service road used by a hydroelectric company, this route offers rough asphalt and an entertaining section of gravel/singletrack, with virtually no traffic. The ride begins with a climb, but the effort is well worth it as you pedal through one of Norway’s most serene landscapes.

A highlight of this route is the tunnel leading to Strandavatnet Lake. It’s unlit, so be sure to bring lights and a wind jacket—the temperature inside the tunnel drops significantly. Once you reach Strandavatnet, the road continues towards Breidavatnet, offering more stunning views. Although the road ends here, the journey back is equally beautiful, with new perspectives on the surrounding mountains and lakes.

Expect a bit of adventure as the road quality deteriorates on the return along Strandavatnet. A section of the route turns into a true “hike-a-bike” experience, where you’ll likely have some friendly sheep guiding your way. The effort is rewarded with a thrilling descent on a smooth, traffic-calm road back to Lysebotn.

Exploring Lysevegen: A Journey Beyond Lysebotn

The Lysebotn climb is just a small part of the much longer and equally spectacular Lysevegen road. This popular tourist route stretches from Lysebotn to Sirdal, offering an epic 30-kilometer journey through some of Norway’s most dramatic landscapes. Built in the 1980s as a service road for the Tjodan hydroelectric plant, Lysevegen was once the only link between Lysebotn and the outside world, apart from the fjord.

Due to snow conditions, Lysevegen is usually accessible between May and October/November, making it a seasonal treasure. The narrow, single-lane road is shared with cars, campers, and motorcyclists, so stay alert. The views along Lysevegen are nothing short of breathtaking, but they can become distracting for fellow motorised road companions.

Hiking in the Lysebotn Area: Trails Worth the Trek

With such an abundance of natural beauty, it would be a crime not to explore the famous hikes around Lysefjorden. The area is a paradise for hikers, offering trails that range from gentle walks to challenging treks. Popular hikes include the trail to Kjeragbolten, a boulder wedged between two cliffs, and the hike to the Kjerag viewpoint, where you can enjoy panoramic views of Lysefjord. Another must-see on the other side of the fjord, is the iconic natural landmark Preikestolen: a unique flat-topped cliff formation at 604 meters above sea level.

Practical Information: Getting There and Where to Stay

For the best experience, take the ferry from Lauvvik to Lysebotn. The ferry ride itself is a scenic journey through the fjord, offering a preview of the stunning landscapes you’ll explore on your bike. Be sure to check the timetable, as the ferry runs daily but doesn’t always take cars. The car ferry runs on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday.

We opted for a rental car from Stavanger Airport, driving to Lysebotn with our bikes packed in the back. Once in Lysebotn, you’ll find a small village with more tourist beds than residents. We stayed at the Lysefjorden Tourist Cabin—simple yet comfortable. Besides tourist cabins and B&Bs, there’s ample space for tents and campers.

Plan to spend 3-4 days or a long weekend in Lysebotn to fully enjoy the cycling, canoeing, hiking, perhaps even base jumping and of course the tranquility of the fjord.

Road and/or gravel cycling in Lysebotn

We didn’t need to choose between road or gravel cycling in Lysebotn, as we brought our Fara F/All-Roads. This bike seamlessly blends the speed of a road bike with the toughness needed for gravel adventures. Its lightweight carbon frame, wider tire clearance, and stable geometry make it a reliable choice for cycling in Norway.

The Ultimate Lysebotn Adventure Awaits

Lysebotn is a paradise for classic road cyclists, gravel enthusiasts and outdoor explorers alike. Whether you’re tackling the legendary Lysebotn climb, exploring the quiet roads, or hiking to breathtaking viewpoints, this spectacular part of Norway offers an adventure like no other. Pack your bike, lace up your hiking boots, and get ready to experience the beauty of Norway.

Follow all our adventures on Instagram and make sure to explore the related posts for more information! And curious about gravel cycling and bikepacking in Norway? You can find more stories here and here.

1 September 2024
Gravel cycling in Dalsland – Sweden in Miniature

When we moved to the south of Sweden, we set out to discover as much of the country as possible. Two years later, we are still discovering new places. This time we headed north to go gravel cycling in Dalsland, a province in Västra Götaland famous for its beautiful lakes and forests.

Dalsland is known as “Sweden in Miniature”, and has all the best things Sweden has to offer. There are lots of fun things to do, such as water sports, hiking, kayaking, and, of course, cycling! The countryside is a gorgeous mix of lakes, rivers, forests, and fields, and the quiet gravel roads take you to charming little towns, impressive country houses, and even castles.

West Sweden invited us to travel around Dalsland and tipped us on the best places for cyclists in the area, and we’ve got to say—we are absolutely blown away by the beauty of Dalsland!

Gravel cycling in Upperud, Dalsland

From Malmö, it was a 5-hour drive to Upperud 9:9, where we spent the first night of this gravel getaway. The hotel is set in an old grain silo and the five unique rooms are nestled into the old structure. Kerstin, the owner of the hotel, welcomed us with open arms and swiftly sent us on our way with a packed lunch for the road. We went cycling on gravel roads through the forest, and came across many beautiful sights along the way.

Back at Upperud 9:9 we had the premier of the newly built sauna! The big glass window offers a relaxing view over the lake, and we watched the birds as we wound down. In the sauna, we also met the other guests. One family had been hiking the Pilgrimsleden and two friends were there on a kayaking trip.

After the sauna, we took a plunge in the cold lake to cool off and prepared ourselves for the 3-course dinner in the hotel’s restaurant. On Saturday, the café is open to everyone, so if you’re cycling in the area, this is the place to fika!

Dalsland canal

The next morning it was time to move to our second Dalsland destination, and after a beautiful Swedish breakfast buffet we loaded our bikes into the car. Along the way we passed the Dalsland aqueduct. It was fascinating to see the spectacular meeting of road, rail and waterway. We love to travel over gravel, but we can definitely picture ourselves paddling along the Dalsland canal too!

Gravel cycling in Dalsland

A twisting and turning road carried us through the forest to Dalsland’s Activities located in Steneby Prästgård in the heart of the Dalsland region. The perfect starting point for a beautiful gravel bike ride. We cycled parts of the Unionsleden, a 350 kilometre long cycle path which takes its travellers from Moss in Norway to Karlstad in Sweden. We rode on a pleasant mix of sparsely trafficked country roads, gravel paths and cycle trails.

Tip: contact Dalsland’s Activities and ask them about renting a gravel bike!

Miles flew by as we enjoyed the breathtaking views over the lakes and waved to the residents we passed by who were tending their gardens to prepare their homes for summer.

We stopped for a hearty lunch at Not Quite, a former paper mill turned into a cultural centre. The café is run by two Belgian sisters, which explains the not so Swedish ‘Uitsmijter’ on the menu. As two Dutchies, we could not pass on such a familiar dish.

Newly refuelled, we continued our ride. After a testing tarmac climb, we dove into the forest via an almost hidden gravel road. The best thing about going up, is that you get to go down again afterwards. We raced and slid over perfect gravel roads, and the technical sections kept us focused on the terrain.

Back at Dalsland’s Activities, we got some ice cream and rode the last 800 meters to where we’d spend the night. It was safe to say that our jaws hit the floor, when we saw where we were sleeping.

Sleeping in a glass cabin

On the shore of Lake Iväg are four unique glass cabins, and one of these was ours for the night. Completely secluded from the outside world, we got to enjoy life in the forest, with the comfort of a big bed, cosy blankets and a beautiful sitting area on a wooden deck over the water. The chef from the activity centre had prepared a barbecue, perfect for two hungry cyclists like ourselves.

If the glass cabin itself wasn’t special enough, we got to use of the wood-fired hut tub as well. After a steaming hot bath, we cosied up in the cabin and watched the treetops gently sway in the wind. After the sun had set, we watched the full moon rise over the lake, casting a long white shimmer on the surface of the water.

Dalsland has so much to offer for cyclists and other outdoor enthusiasts. Luxurious stays like ours ensure that you go back home fully recharged. Cyclists who crave more adventure and have strong legs can discover this beautiful region by bikepacking and sleep in one of the many wind shelters.

Gravel cycling in Dalsland is truly an unforgettable experience. Visit westsweden.com for more inspiration.

23 May 2022
Ride report: The Dirty Halland gravel ride ’22 Grusfest

Sweden’s gravel calendar starts in March with the Dirty Halland: A 165 kilometre gravel ride, organised by Team CYKLAMERA. We rode the 2022 edition, and it was a day filled with sun, gravel and climbs: a success formula for a first-class gravel event.

The organisers create a brand new route each year, and this year’s ride was fast and scenic. The start was in Steninge, a lovely little coastal town located 20 kilometres northwest of Halmstad. From a logistics point of view we opted to rent a car for the day. Like real Swedes we drove a (rented) Volvo station car to Steninge. With our 3T Exploro gravel bikes stacked in the trunk

Grusfest for every type of rider

On the road we already spotted some gravel bikes on cars with bike carriers, a telling sign that we were in for a big group ride. No one counted, but the organisers estimated that over 200 riders started, divided in three categories: Muddy (20 km/h), Dirty (24 km/h) and Dusty (28 km/h). We optimistically categorised ourselves in the Dirty group.

At the start line we reconnected with friends that we met over the last two years of grus grinding all over the country. We started the ride with a peloton of about 75 riders. A short bit of tarmac, and then the first gravel section of the day. As in every group ride, the pace was high from the get go. Combine that with a bumpy gravel surface and the water bottles started shooting off bikes and onto the road.

Post-COVID gravel cycling

We chose to let the big group go and ride at our own pace. Two weeks before the event we both tested positive for COVID, so we weren’t in the best shape to begin with. This also explains why you mainly see Sabina in most of the pictures, and no big groups of cyclists. The fun thing about an event with so many participants, is that you almost always catch up with someone, or they will catch up with you.

The 2022 Dirty Halland route

The Dirty Halland 2021 went through a lot of dense forests, whereas the 2020 route reminded us a bit of Skåne. Rolling hills, open fields, and agricultural lands. But way less populated than our Southern province. The route included typical Swedish scenery, with needle leaf trees, icey blue lakes and rocky ‘grusväger’.

One of the prettiest sections starts at the 65 kilometer mark. We crossed a national road and then a long gravel section began. Team Cyklamera made a Strava segment of this section. It’s 9 kilometres in length, but don’t start too hard along the lake. The segment includes two small but tough climbs in Yttra Bergs Naturreservat.

We also loved the section on the Ätranbaneleden, between Ullared and Fegen. The trail goes over old railway embankments. Not exactly an easy rolling bike lane, but this challenging double-track gravel road is the reason why you bring a gravel bike and not a road bike.

Resupply at the fika stop

Team CYKLAMERA made sure that bonking wasn’t an option by including an amazing bakery halfway on the route. Vallsäters Skafferi, after 84 kilometres in Ullared, was the perfect place for a fika break with coffee and pastries. Ullared is also home to Gekås, which for us makes it one of the weirdest places in Sweden. Gekås is a super store with a shopping area of over 30.000 square metres. People from all over the country come here to shop in bulk. The area even includes a bungalow park, a camping area and Sweden’s biggest parking lot.

Finishing 160 km

Halfway through the Dirty Halland gravel ride the finish still felt very far away, especially with the headwind that played a small, but still a present part. Our physical condition had taken a noticeable hit from COVID. But as soon as we turned southwards, our spirits got a pick up from the tailwind and we reached the finish in what felt like no-time. We might not be very fast, but we can steadily ride very far – which happens to be exactly what we’re training for!

Back in Steninge, we were welcomed by Robin and Gustavo from Team CYKLAMERA with an ice cream followed by a big meal. Big thanks to everyone on the team for organising this amazing ride. By the way, if you rode the Dirty Halland this year and are missing a glove, we handed it over to the organisation. And if you lost a banana because it fell out of your pocket, sorry but we ate it.

Follow all our adventures on Instagram.

14 April 2022
Bikepacking and gravel videos – Part IV

In this fourth part of ‘Bikepacking and gravel videos,’ we present you with five cycling-related films we enjoyed very much lately. From inspiring footage of a bike-and-pack rafting expedition to a powerful message about mental health. From the almost endless gravel roads of the United States to the rugged mountains of Norway. So, sit back, relax, and enjoy the adventure.

Want some more? You’ll find the previous series here, here and here.

The Kona Sutra: Contrast

By Kona Bikes

Some movies make you want to get on your bike and go exploring. The Kona Sutra: Contrast definetly has that effect on us. Romain Barrez of Kona Europe enjoys being creative and taking his Sutra out. He took bikepacking and packrafting to the next level. He strapped a pack raft onto his bike. Paddled from Nice, France, past Entrevaux, and up to Saint Julien du Verdon, passing through old villages and lovely surroundings. This amazing film shows the most breathtaking landscapes, and highlights of his trip.

https://youtu.be/xBgpbHDlEq8

Crossing Iceland

By Payson McElveen

Iceland is a true bucketlist destination for many cyclists. But something that may be less appealing, is crossing this barren island in one-single go. Payson McElveen devised a strategy to be the very first person to cross Iceland from coast to coast on a bicycle. Including typical Icelandic weather conditions. With the prospect of a winter storm, river crossings through glacier run-offs, and a 4 a.m. start, Payson completed the Iceland crossing in 19 hours 45 minutes.

10 days bikepacking to the mountains of Norway

By Backwoods Bikepacking

In this film, Mikkel Soya Bølstad takes his family on a ten day bikepacking trip in Norway. For them, a summer holidays isn’t complete without a tent and a serious portion of the outdoors. Challenge: they don’t own a car and didn’t want to rely on public transport. So they rode their bikes to the mountains with their dog, avoiding high-traffic roads as much as possible. Things went quite nicely for the first half of the loop, but then luck seemed to run out.

Gravel – A Love Letter

By PEARL iZUMi

The documentary film ‘Gravel – A Love Letter’ captures the essence of gravel cycling by sharing what it means to the riders. Leading characters are three PEARL iZUMi athletes, Hannah Shell, Marley Blonsky, and Angela Naeth. The film delves into the history of gravel racing. And the effect it has on the towns and the inhabitants along the routes.

Grateful | Alec Suriyuth

By Yama Folk

The film Grateful, created by Yama Folk and starring mountain cyclist and photographer Alec Suriyuth, focusses on mental health and the value of the simple things in life. Friendship, riding singletrails and photography have given Alec a renewed respect for the natural world. The film is not just about the powerful message. Also, the footage of British Columbia makes you want to visit this stunning place!

Follow all our adventures on Instagram.

11 April 2022
Gravel cycling in Girona – 12 cycling routes in Spain

Gravel cycling in Girona along peaceful roads and tracks in stunning scenery. On our two-week holiday we cycled around Girona and Banyoles with its stunning lakes, forests and rivers. Our 12 routes will show you quiet roads and tracks, quaint villages and ancient fortresses, churches, chapels and monasteries; we pedalled through nature parks full of forests and visited the famous Costa Brava.

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We couldn’t resist going for a brief ride on the day of our arrival. While we changed and grabbed a bite to eat by the lake, Edward from Rocacorba Cycling generously constructed our bikes. The skies darkened as we drove away, and it began to rain about halfway through our ride. We sought shelter under some trees, but the rain grew heavier and didn’t appear to be letting up. So we gathered our wits and resumed riding, having a terrific time in the process.

Fortunately, we weren’t getting cold, just wet. I’m not the best descender, and the wet surface terrified me, so I rode down slowly. I could catch up with Robin on the flats, ensuring that I stayed warm while working up some speed. We returned to Rocacorba and parked our bikes in the impressive bike area, where hero Edward once again took care of them. We went to the lake for a big meal, but not before a steaming hot shower!

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Our first real riding day in Banyoles! We set out on a route that includes a good mix of gravel and road. We were pleasantly surprised by the amount of gravel in the mix. There were some long stretches of tarmac that were also fantastic thanks to the kindness of local drivers.

The gravel ranged from fast, hard packed gravel to big chunky rocks and red mud that sucked your tires right in. It’s definitely a fun mix of technical climbs and descents. The gradients were difficult but never too difficult. Before you know you’re already at the top and rolling down while taking in the view you’d just worked so hard for.

As inexperienced tourists, we missed the shops’ opening hours, so while the shopkeepers were napping, I was slightly concerned about the lack of snack supplies. We stopped for a pastalunch in Lladó and brought a snack for the rest of the journey. After our ride, we stocked up on snacks at Lidl and cooked a home-cooked meal (more pasta) in Rocacorba’s well-equipped kitchen. Carbs and candy: the winning combination for a successful cycling vacation?

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We took a scenic route from Banyoles to Girona. We were riding so fast on the tarmac that we missed a few turns because we were looking around and not paying attention to our cycling computers. There were some climbs planned on the way to the city, but due to road construction, we had to skip the second. Instead, we were treated to a beautiful quiet gravel road where we had to stop and take some photos because the light was falling through the foliage so beautifully!

We went shopping at The Service Course and ate at La Fabrica. You can believe everything you’ve heard about them. Everything about La Fabrica is excellent: the food, the service, the atmosphere.

We returned by following the Vies Verders, a long-distance gravel cycling route with hard packed gravel bike lanes that runs through farm fields.

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We couldn’t get enough of the gravel cycling in Girona, so we asked Edward from Rocacorba Cycling for a short, exciting gravel adventure. He arrived with a fantastic 44-kilometer loop, including an incredibly flowy single track that felt tailor-made for gravel bikes.

The remainder of the route followed the double track used by farmers and residents of the small villages scattered throughout the beautiful region. There were a few small hills to climb, but nothing too difficult. The elevation did provide us with a stunning view of the higher mountains in the distance.

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We wanted to see the famous Pont de Besalú, and Edward had a fantastic road ride that took us over this famous bridge and straight through the Medieval town with its traditional cobblestones. With our bikes in hand, we walked down the stairs and across the impressive medieval bridge.

The highway towards Olot, which we cycled alongside, was a bit of a letdown after this picture-perfect setting. But the noisy and busy road soon vanished into the mountain, where it was swallowed up by a tunnel, providing us with some peace and quiet.

Cyclists heading to Olot ride around the mountain. When you see the lovely Castellfollit de la Roca, you’ve arrived at the start of the 15-kilometre-long climb. But the gradient is forgiving.

The descent to Banyoles begins after Olot. First, you’ll travel on a lovely tarmac road, which you’ll share with other cars who typically wait until it’s safe to pass. Later, through the green Volcano nature reserve’s double track gravel roads.

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The first ever Jeroboam was held in Girona in 2019, departing from Rocacorba Cycling. Jeroboam is a gravel race with three distances: 75 kilometres, 150 kilometres, and 300 kilometres. We wanted to try the 150-kilometre route, but we were already leaning toward skipping the last sections.

The route started out extremely difficult, with one uphill immediately followed by another. It made us wonder how difficult this thing would be! We had planned to stop for coffee at Rustik (tip!), but they close at 1pm, so we had to rush to get there in time.

The landscape changed dramatically after Rustik. The rolling hills had given way to open fields, and we could feel the coast getting closer and closer. We soon passed L’Escala and began climbing the rough roads of Parc Natural del Montgr.

We had arrived at the Costa Brava where we had a big paella lunch, followed by a smack in the face-strong espresso. Enough fuel to return to Rocacorba Cycling. We returned by riding through apple orchards and following the river. Compared to the way out, these roads were practically flat.

Edward had warned us not to attempt the final climb because, quote, “it is just mean.” Unfortunately, our route planning was not as sharp after 100+ kilometres, so we managed to navigate over an off-road section that required us to carry our bikes up, as well as a highway! So, if you intend to ride this route. Either complete the original route (komoot.nl/tour/100633309) or reroute the last section of this route from the big roundabout at 107 km.

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On our seventh day in Spain, we had planned a day of rest. It didn’t take long for us to realize that the route we had planned was far from ideal for a recovery ride.

Sabina had a saddle sore as well, so we turned around and rode a short loop around the lake instead. You have to give in and listen to your body at times.

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All week, the Rocacorba had been watching over us, luring and taunting us. “Climb me, climb me,” we could almost hear from the top of the two red and white radio towers. Many local cyclists claim it is their least favorite ascent, but when in Rome…

We discussed strategy and devised a plan of action. Robin designed a route and asked if I was okay with a second, smaller climb. “We’ll give it a shot!”, I said. I’m glad my strategy for the Rocacorba was ‘easy does it’, because I don’t think I’d have made up Roca del Castell otherwise.

The Rocacorba climb is relatively easy because the gradient is never too steep. It progresses in three stages, with the middle stage being the most difficult and time-consuming. The final twirl around the peak felt the longest because it gets steeper here and you can see the radio tower, but it still feels so far away.

If you want to complete the Strava segment, make sure you ride all the way to the fence. My time was 1:05:31, placing me at 1.324 out of 2.014 women who attempted it. I’m aiming for 697th place the next time!

The difficult part began as we rode downhill. Robin had discovered a gravel section that was more akin to a downhill MTB segment. Our bikes bounced over the loose rocks, and as we squeezed them, our brakes cried for mercy.

When I saw the second climb looming in the distance, I almost started crying too. Of course, this was the day I decided to ride light and not stuff my handlebar pack with candy and other snacks. So, with empty stomachs, we tackled the second climb, which was completely off-road and had gradients of more than 20%. The view from the top, on the other hand, was breathtaking.

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Another ride meant to be a recovery ride, but didn’t work out that way. We moved to Equipe guest house after an amazing stay at Rocacorba Cycling. Equipe is a lovely modern guest house high in Montjuïc, next to Girona.

The service at Rocacorba Cycling had already exceeded our expectations, but thanks to the amazing team, we were able to ride our bikes to our new home while they moved our bike case and bags for us.

The road we took was a gorgeous gravel road with some punchy climbs where walking sometimes might be faster. The ascent over tarmac to Equipe guest house, felt cruelly steep. We were fortunate to be welcomed so warmly, and we were able to rest our legs by the pool, which overlooked the city and the mountains that surrounded it.

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Wilma and Mick, the owners of Equipe, are a super nice Dutch couple. Mick offered to show us his favourite gravel cycling in Girona. My brakes were completely done after the previous few days, so we stopped by Eat, Sleep, Cycle before heading out. We had already ridden the first section, but we didn’t mind returning to Rustik!

A local’s knowledge always leads you to the best roads, and the gravel was fast to say the least. We rode at a much faster pace than usual through tree plantations and apple orchards. It’s funny how bringing in another cyclist motivated us to push ourselves a little harder.

We treated ourselves to a lovely lunch at La Fabrica in the city after the ride before tackling the climb back up to the guest house.

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Some rides, you just have the feeling that today isn’t going to be your day. Especially after riding about every day for almost a week and tackling much more elevation than you’re used to. Add a few saddle sores to the mix, and you’ve got me beat.

We had planned this beautiful ride with a visit to Lolita from Our Girona, but we have to save it for another time. If you go, will you tell us how it was?

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Our last day of gravel cycling in Girona! It was almost time to clean and pack up the bikes, after two incredible weeks. But not before another perfect loop with a good mix of adventure cycling, climbing, and smooth rolling tarmac.

We climbed the first half of the way up to Els Angels via Puig Estela’s trails. A mountain bike might be better suited for these trails, but we managed our way up, not complaining because we were so happy to be in such a beautiful setting. In comparison to what we had just done, the rest of the climb on tarmac felt like easy sailing.

We marveled at the breathtaking scenery from the summit, with views stretching all the way to the Pyrenees and the Costa Brava. The descent to Madremanya was a dream, with soft turns and a gentle gradient.

We stopped for coffee in Monells at the fairytale square, where we laughed at the worst latte art we’d ever seen. By the square’s tap, we filled our water bottles. When we tried to continue our ride, we discovered that my rear brake had locked, clamping tightly on the disc rotor. We were able to push it a little further out, but thankfully it happened on the last day. Our 3T Exploro’s and the new Rebel wheels really help up well under the abuse over the last two weeks.

The Santa Pellara climb also provided stunning views of the surrounding greenery, and the road surface and drivers’ behaviour were both excellent. We will definitely return to Girona for more gravel cycling!

Follow all our adventures on Instagram.

8 November 2021
Bikepacking the Haervejen – A family reunion
Travel and bikepacking was near to impossible for a long time. Even family visits between the Netherlands and Sweden were a hassle for months. So when the travel restrictions finally allowed it, Robin, his father and brother travelled to start of the Hærvejen in Denmark. Here they would finally meet again after a long time. And what better way to enjoy each other’s company than a 400 km bikepacking adventure?

The Hærvejen – translated as the army road – is a prehistoric route between Frederikshavn in the north of Denmark and Padborg, located near the German border. The route, which is more than a thousand years old, has been an important trade route throughout the years. Oxen, honey, fur and weapons were transported over this road. Today, the Hærvejen serves as a cycling and walking route. On the way, we saw medieval churches, Viking stones and prehistoric burial mounds.

We drove the route from north to south. There is plenty of wind in Denmark, as evidenced by the many windmills along the route, and we had the wind in our backs. For logistical reasons, our adventure did not start in Frederikshavn, but in Aalborg. It is easy to get there by train. The majority of the route is paved, but along the way there are also some singletrails and gravel roads through forests and fields.

Day 1 – Aalborg to Slettestrand

I travelled by train from Malmö, Sweden – where I live – via the Danish capital, Copenhagen, to Aalborg. The country’s fourth-largest city is easily reached by train from every corner of Denmark. Martin (father) and Jeroen (brother) had driven from the Netherlands to Padborg by car. The last part of the journey was also done by train.

The official starting and finishing point of the Hærvejen is about 65 kilometres to the north, in Frederikshavn to be precise. A heavy storm nearly blew us off our bikes at times, so we were glad we had skipped the section between Frederikshavn and Aalborg. The first few kilometres were on lovely cycle paths through almost endless wheat fields with dark rain clouds in the background. At the height of a tiny village called Kaas, the route curved a little. Not only did this mean that the wind direction was now more in our favour, but we also finally got some gravel under our wheels. Even some sections of hike-a-bike.

The last part along the Slettestrand was beautiful. From the high sand dunes, we had an amazing view of the beach. We climbed the bunkers from the Second World War and had to hold on tight. It is always windy here, except when there is a storm! We slept at Svinkløv campsite, fantastically located and with all mod cons. There was even a kitchen for us to use.

Day 2 – Slettestrand to Viborg

On the second day of our adventure, we really picked up the original route. It was not long before the signs with “Hærvejen” showed us the way. The whole route is well signposted. The first part of the route took us over rocky gravel roads through wooded areas, interspersed with heathland.

After a little over 20 kilometres, we crossed the Aggersund via a bridge. If you are lucky and pay close attention, you can see seals bobbing up and down in the Limfjord from the bridge. The route then passed through Løgstør, a good place to stock up on snacks in one of the many supermarkets. Cola, ice coffee and energy drinks. Anyone desperate for sugar has come to the right place.

We cycled most of the way along the beautiful gravel roads of the Hærvejen. The long roads took us through a patchwork of landscapes. One moment we enjoyed wide views and the next we were cycling through the forest.

Along the way, we didn’t find many places to stock up on food and snacks. On the other hand, there were plenty of water taps. In Aars – about 50 km away – we had coffee and cake at the local bakery. Near Skals we deviated a little from the route to get our groceries. On komoot, we had seen that there were a number of wind shelters before Viborg. These typical wooden huts can be found all over Scandinavia. You can sleep here for free and most huts have a water pump and a fire place.

Day 3 – Viborg to Jelling

The third day took us through the heart of Mid Jutland, or Mittjylland as the Danes say. After heaps of porridge, we rolled up our sleeping bags and mats and prepared for departure. The first part of the route went right through Viborg and was perhaps not the most beautiful part. But what followed later that day made up for everything.

The great thing about bikepacking is that you see the landscape change with every kilometre. The vast agricultural lands slowly make way for dense forests. In many places, the nature even reminded me of Sweden. Another big difference with the previous days was the many hills. The route this day included a number of short but vicious climbs.

The 100 kilometres of the day before – together with the altitude metres of today – were quite challenging for Jeroen. But with some sugar and energy in the form of a can of coke, a toasted sandwich and an ice cream, Jeroen was back on track. Which was good, because one of the nicer parts of the route was still to come. The stretch along the Hald Sø (the Hald Lake) is truly beautiful.

Over hilly terrain and a challenging mix of unpaved roads, the final destination came in sight. In Jelling, two rune stones were found. According to legend, it was here that Viking king Harold Blauwtand officially switched to Christianity. Next to the UNESCO World Heritage site, we found a B&B. A night in a real bed, a hot shower and a takeaway pizza.

Day 4 – Jelling to Vojens

On day four we had another long day in the saddle with almost 100 kilometres. The night in the B&B had done us all good, my activity tracker showed that I had slept almost 11 hours. Martin and Jeroen had also slept well. So the 100 kilometres that were on the programme today promised to be no problem at all.

Just before departure, we picked our clean laundry off the line and stuffed it into our dusty bikepacking bags. A double breakfast and now we were really ready to go. Just outside Jelling, we rode straight through the fields with an immense amount of corn and grain.

A few kilometres before Bække, we came across a special attraction: Klebæk Høje. This historical site consists of two domed burial mounds from the Bronze Age, a 45 metre shipwreck and a runestone from the Viking Age. Here, we met a Dutch couple who were cycling the route the other way round. Good luck with the headwind the next few days, I thought to myself.

After Vejen we left the Danish hills behind us and the road surface levelled out. The remainder of the route was made up of several kilometres of gravel. We bought food, snacks and drinks in Vojens before we cycled a little way back north. We had heard that there was a windshelter in a beautiful spot, in the middle of the forest. Which was right! After a barbecue, we rolled into our sleeping bags, tired but satisfied.

Day 5 – Vojens to Padborg

The last day of our Hærvejen adventure was a relaxed ride. The final destination, Padborg, was only 65 kilometres away. Packing the bags went faster and faster. The yesterday’s washed clothes no longer smelt of bright detergent, but of the smell of fire.

It was not only our bodies that had to endure a lot during the trip, but also the material. The bikes were so dusty that it almost looked as if the frames were a different colour. The first part of the route was mainly on tarmac roads, but the devil was in the tail. Maintenance had recently been carried out on a number of gravel roads. And by maintenance I mean dumping a new load of rocks. With 38 mm tyres, it was quite a bumpy ride at times.

Just when we had had enough, a tall tower loomed up with a big yellow ‘M’. A few hamburgers and cups of coffee and the last part of the route could be completed.

The finish of our adventure was in Padborg, a small town that mainly serves as a transit destination. We stayed in a hotel and rested a bit before going our separate ways. My brother and father loaded their bikes on the back of the car and drove back to the Netherlands. I took the Flixbus back to Copenhagen and eventually the train to Malmö. What a great bikepacking adventure this was. Even more special to do this together with my father and brother after not having seen each other for a long time.

More about bikepacking the Hærvejen

The campfires, nights in sleeping bags and hours in the saddle were the ultimate family reunion. For both my father and brother, it was their very first experience of bikepacking. Even with the inevitable walls that were hit and irritations caused by fatigue, bikepacking the Hærvejen became an unforgettable adventure.

The Hærvejen is also part of the amazing European Trail Divide – a 7600 km bikepacking route across Europe from Finland to Portugal. You can find more information about the route here: komoot.nl/collection/1070173

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16 October 2021
Bikepacking the Blekingeleden – Our second attempt

In 2020, we made our first attempt at bikepacking the Blekingeleden. With our bikepacking bags strapped to our trusty steel touring bikes we set off. Deep in the beech forest, we climbed the Ryssberg and were rewarded with fantastic views of lakes. But we weren’t ready for the trails covered in tree roots. Now, a year later, we felt much better prepared.

Better bikes for bikepacking

This time we competed on a serious gravel bike and a hardtail mountain bike. And indeed, we were a lot faster despite the heavy rain on the first day. From the green-fringed lakes in the forest, we rode to the beautiful coastline where we were treated to the most beautiful sunset we had ever seen. This year however, we only had three days. Far too short for the whole route, at least for us. Therefore, the route was shortened for the second time, and we have no choice but to try again next year.

Riding the whole Blekingeleden

The Blekingeleden is a hiking trail in southern Sweden. The route starts in the medieval town of Sölvesborg and takes you via trails and gravel roads through forests, across meadows and along lakes and streams to Bröms on the east coast. But to be honest – we have never made it that far.

Bikepacking the Blekingeleden – day 1: From Sölvesborg to Halen

We set off in Sölvesborg, which we reached by train from Malmö. Immediately, the route took us deep into the beech forest where we began the climb up Ryssberg. Where at the top, we were rewarded with a fantastic view. The gpx file that we loaded on our cycling computers differed from the original route, so we cycled a bit more on gravel roads. This was actually a welcome change from the difficult single tracks, although we did get rained on more here than in the forest. The gravel roads were completely empty, and it felt like we had Blekinge all to ourselves.

Back in the forest, we enjoyed the smell of the deciduous forest with beech, oak and hornbeam. We cycled past lakes and meadows that we recognized from last year. The colours in the fields were quite this time around, even though we were there at about the same time. The deciduous forest that is interrupted occasionally by dark elements of planted spruce was still the same. After only a few hours cycling, we reached the point where we arrived exhausted last year after a day’s slog: Östafors. Now we filled our water bottles here and rode on proud of our own progress.

Sweden’s southernmost wilderness

From the foot of Sibbarpsdalen in Östafors, the Blekingeleden follows the same tracks as the Skåneleden, all the way to Olofström in the heart of Sweden’s southernmost wilderness. From the valley, we had to push the bikes for quite some time on densely grown footpaths that sometimes seemed to go straight up. However, the biggest challenge of the day was yet to come. The ‘spången’ are wooden planks to walk on that are even more challenging in wet conditions. The slippery planks are just wide enough for hiking boots, which means you have to carry your bike for quite some time – while performing a balancing act.

Halen, the beautiful lake and nature reserve near Olofström was our final destination for the day. Here are several wind shelters right on the shore and we found a beautiful Vindskydd that we shared with two canoeists.

Bikepacking the Blekingeleden – day 2: From Sölvesborg to Halen

After a long and deep sleep in the open air, we woke up by the beautiful lake. Our cycling clothes and shoes were still wet from yesterday’s rain, but fortunately we had both packed an extra pair of dry cycling trousers. Our goal was to be completely self-sufficient during this trip. That meant a lot of freeze-dried meals and filtering water. The water from the lake tasted fine, running water in Swedish nature is generally drinkable anywhere.

From the shelter, we cycled along a gravel road around the lake towards Olofström. From there, the route took us a little way along the road to the Kullans nature reserve. Here, the Blekingeleden follows a footpath that is not suitable for cycling. Hike-a-bikes are part of the fun for us, but when the narrow path goes right through the brambles, we start to squeal too.

In some places, the path ran right along a high ledge, which prevented us from trying to ride the technical trails. A minor glimpse here can lead to disaster. Yes, the nature is beautiful here, but the gravel roads that go around this area are also very nice. We will leave this part out next time.

Camping by the archipelago

We had set our sights on spending the night at our favourite camping spot of last year. But if we were to wander through the bushes all day, that was never going to happen. After an insanely dangerous crossing of a motorway (you literally climb over the crash barrier to get to the path straight up the hill on the other side) we decided to alter the route. Our decision was only reinforced when we saw a mountain hop up the mountain with his ultralight bicycle. Time for plan B.

The only problem with that? We had not made a plan B before leaving. We found a shady spot next to a country road and figured out a route to Järnavik in the komoot app. We configured the route on small roads as much as possible, hoping to avoid other traffic. In reality, however, many of these roads turned out to be overgrown and impassable even for hike-a-bikes.

The campsite shop in Järnavik beckoned, as we went through our snacks more quickly than we had anticipated. After 60 kilometres of adventure and route exploring, we decided to follow the easy main road. Blekinge is fortunately a lot quieter than Skåne, so we were not bothered too much by cars (or they by us). Where Sabina had the advantage on the singletrails with her mountain bike with 2.25 inch tyres and front suspension, here on the road she had to struggle to keep up with Robin with his aero gravel bike.

With a strong headwind, as befits the coast, we entered Järnavik. At the windshelter, we found two Belgian touring cyclists who immediately recognized us. Our blog from last year had inspired them to cycle here. We shared cycling stories and enjoyed the beautiful sunset over the archipelago from the fjord. The viewpoint was so beautiful that we decided to sleep here under the stars.

Bikepacking the Blekingeleden – day 3: From Järnavik to Karlskrona

On the last day, we switched from adventure to holiday mood. The Blekingeleden goes inland from Järnavik and we wanted to get on the train home in Karlskrona. So, we decided to follow the road along the Blekinge skärgård (the archipelago).

We drove past small villages with huge villas, but also cute traditional Swedish wooden houses in brilliant pastel pink, blue and even green. We picked wild strawberries and raspberries along the way and bought some delicious honey at a roadside stand. Souvenirs are always bought on the last day of a cycle tour! To our great surprise, we ended up on the Blekingeleden again, although this time it went over wide gravel roads through open fields instead of straight over a mountain through the bramble bushes. A long and boring stretch for walking, but great for cycling.

We were amazed by all the highlights along the way. We drove past a petrol station which was more like a museum and laughed at the sight of a canary yellow Lamborghini driving extremely slowly over the bad gravel road. At Edestad, we accidentally ended up on the wrong side of the train tracks, but judging by the broken-in tracks, we were not the first ones to climb over them. Railways, motorways, in Blekinge these are not insurmountable obstacles.

Biking turning into boating in Blekinge

The last part before Nättraby, we couldn’t avoid the main road, but luckily there was a cycle path along it. The Blekinge coast is bursting with luxurious holiday villas with private beaches and massive gardens. We drove between all this splendour to Sjuhalla, where we got on the ferry to Karlskrona.

On the dock you have to put the signal up yourself, so that the skipper knows that a passenger wants to go on the ferry. The boat first went in the opposite direction, but we felt like taking a tour of the beautiful archipelago, so we hopped on anyway. On board, we bought coffee and Robin practised his Swedish with a very enthusiastic elderly couple. The man told us that Karslkrona was founded during the reign of Charles XI in 1680. It was established as a southern naval base, for when the northern harbours froze in the winter. The name of the town literally means Karl’s crown, or the king’s crown.

The last stop in Karlskrona

With all this new knowledge, we got off at Fisktorget, the end station of the ferry, in the city on the peninsula. We had just enough time to get a typical Swedish ‘korv med mos’ (sausage with mashed potatoes) for the journey back to Malmö. Three hours later we were back in the centre of our home town of Malmö. A perfect weekend adventure richer.

Disclaimer: the Blekingleden is not a cycling route. But that does not mean that you cannot cycle. Sweden has the ‘Allemansrätten’, a law that makes sure you can walk and cycle on any land (except private gardens, in the immediate vicinity of houses and on farmland and some national parks)! As long as you don’t disturb anyone and don’t leave any tracks, you can cycle almost everywhere in Sweden. However, this is a set out as a hiking route, so please don’t set out with a group of 20 riders and always give way to hikers.

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29 July 2021
On bike nutrition – Testing 5 cycling snacks for longer rides
When you go on longer rides, there’s an extra aspect to take into consideration: on bike nutrition. We have mostly lived off Snickers and dried fruit, but realized that we needed to expand our culinary horizon a bit. So we decided to try out some new types of snacks to eat while cycling longer rides. Read on to read our review of Oskar Oatbar, Maurten Hydragel, our home made energyballs (plus recipe!), Snickers and of course banana.

When cycling we get our energy from fat and glucoses that we have stored in our body. On a lower intensity we burn fat and as the cycling intensifies we switch from fat to burning glucose which we derive from carbohydrates. When the glycogen runs out, your legs just won’t spin any more. Most of us have been there, and it’s no fun. So just eat the same amount of calories that you burn? Not really, it’s also about how much your body can digest.

Fat and protein are much harder for the body to digest, so those Snickers might not be such a good pick after all. We all like to ride hard on our training rides, so we are mostly burning glycogen. Since we store glycogen (and fat) in our body we luckily don’t have to munch away the same amount of carbs that we burn, we just have to make sure we don’t get a deficit.

We always start off with a full tank. And when rides go on for longer than one and a half hours we make sure that we refuel our tank regularly. Our bodies can absorb 60 grams of carbohydrates per hour in single form and 90 to 120 gram if you combine different types of carbohydrates. The upper limit is different for everyone and also depends on how hard you train. It’s best to try for yourself how much you can take in without getting nauseous on that unexpected climb that always seems to pop up right after you’ve crammed in an energy bar.

Cycling snacks review

We did a little review of the snacks that we bring on our ride, just to give you some inspiration. By no means are we experts in nutrition, so we are not saying that this is what you ‘should’ be eating. But to still be able to give you some useful information we evaluated our snacks on four factors: taste, packability, nutrition and price.

Can’t beat a banana

You can’t go wrong with a banana. Unless you leave it at the bottom of your snack bag over a bumpy road for a few hours. Bananas are tasty, healthy and actually get sweeter if they brown up a bit. A banana is super easy to stick in your back pocket, but does risk getting mushy. Some people can handle it, some don’t. For us Sabina usually eats the brown soggy parts which Robin just can not deal with. Depending on where you are, the peel is either easy to discard (if it gets eaten by animals) or a pain to carry (in suburban areas).

Another plus for the banana, is that they are cheap. Here in Sweden a banana costs around 5 SEK (€0,50/£0,40).

Home-made energy balls

Who knew that making your own energy snack was that easy. We bought a bag of Nut & Fruit mix at Lidl, added five big medjool dates and mixed it into a smooth paste in the blender. After rolling the paste into small balls (about the size of a golf ball) we rolled them in cacao powder to prevent them from sticking to each other. We save the energy balls in the freezer and by the time we want a snack they are the perfect temperature and texture.

The balls turned out really tasty, although they were very sweet and a bit sticky. If you’d eat more than three in a row while cycling you’d probably get a little nauseous. We bought a premixed bag, but you could of course make your own mix with more nuts and less dried fruits to make it a bit less sweet. Add whatever (un)healthy ingredient you want, peanut or almond butter, ground instant coffee, protein powder, flaxseed, whatever you want!

We packed the balls in a Ziploc bag, and they kept their form. I don’t know how well they will keep on very hot days as they might melt a bit, so pack carefully. Be careful not to eat too much of these little rocket fuel balls. Dried fruits contain a lot of fibres, which is super healthy but may not be the best when cycling. Eating too many fibres on the bike can make you constipated or leave you feeling bloated.

The mixed bag with cranberries, walnuts, almonds and sultanas cost 24,90 SEK (€2,46/£2,14) and the box with dates was also 24,90 SEK. I used the entire bag of the mix but only took a few dates out of the big box, making this is a really cheap cycling snack. Since we made our own mix we have to ballpark the nutrients.

Oskar Oatbar

These oatbars that are handmade in Germany really surprised us. When we think of oatbars we think of a dry either tasteless or overly sweetened bar that is not easy to chomp up. That’s probably also why we saved them for last, and only tried them when everything else was finished. But wow, how badly did we misjudge those. We tried the Cardamom 390s bar and the Classic Curcuma bar. After having eaten a lot of sweet snacks it was so nice to have something that was more savoury and a little spicy-sweet. We liked the Cardamom flavour the best. The texture was easy to chew on and didn’t feel dry to the mouth. The bar was filling without leaving the stomach feeling heavy. Would definitely recommend it.

The bars are made from organic ingredients: oats, wheat flour, different kinds of natural syrup and tasty spices.

The paper wrapper had got a little oily from the bar (we think), so it had some dark spots. It didn’t feel like it would stain your jersey, and paper beats plastic any day if you ask us. The bar easily fits in a jersey pocket or food pouch, since it is very flat. They are also very light and still have a high nutritional value. One bar costs €2,50, but considering you get actual food that’s pretty okay to us.

Maurten Hydrogel

Most cyclists either hate it or love it. We haven’t made up our minds yet. The taste of the Maurten energy gel that we tried was very pleasant. A little sweet, but not too much. The substance is weird. Do you chew or gulp it up? (Robin chewed and Sabina gulped.) The packaging is tiny, so it’s really easy to take with you. The ratio of energy to weight is huge. You can easily pull it out of a pocket, open it with one hand and consume while cycling. Sabina got a little reflux, maybe she ate it too fast?

The gel contains water, glucose, fructose, calcium carbonate, gluconic acid and sodium alginate. The composition of both the ingredients and the substance of the gel is designed for maximum energy absorption. It will definitely not replace a meal, but if you are in a race, a meal is not what’s on your mind. This is purely to replenish your body to perform at maximum capacity. Nevertheless, if you are going to use gels in a race, you also need to train with them. Maybe not every ride, but at least a few times before race day.

The gels are high-tech and that’s usually synonymous for expensive. And that goes for these gels as well at €3,36 a piece.

Snickers

The nutritional value of a Snickers candy bar is at first glance very similar to energy bars. But there are some important differences between these yummy candy bars and healthier energy bars. Snickers have a higher proportion of fructose to glucose. Glucose is always the first sugar the body uses for energy. Any excess fructose not needed for energy will be used to make body fat. Snickers are also very high in fat, which is why they are so delicious and melt in your mouth. But like mentioned before, fat is much harder for the body to break down into energy.

Healthier energy bars derive their calories from a more balanced distribution of carbs, fat and protein and provide more vitamins and minerals. Sure there are some nuts in there, but those are drowned in a sticky sea of melted sugar.

If it’s not your go-to meal and eat five snickers in one ride, then you’re absolutely fine. You should get the most important vitamins and minerals from your main meals anyway, and not from cycling snacks. Because to be fair, they are almost like the perfect cycling snack. Cheap, small, delicious and available all around the world (it was mostly Snickers that got us through the Pamir Highway.) Top it off with a can of Red Bull like our friend Gustaf and your dentist will definitely hate you. But you will have enough energy to get home.

Your favourite cycling snack

What is your favourite gel, or do you prefer a whole different type of fuel?We’d love to hear what you bring on your rides, especially on multi-day rides. And as much as we enjoy all this on bike nutrition. There’s nothing as good as a proper fika*!

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29 April 2021
Ride report: A Day in Hell – Gravel cycling in rain, mud and soaked bibs
We all know that in cycling you don’t just train your body, you train your mind too. And there is no better way to train your mind than gravel cycling in rain. Add some snow, hail and a brutal headwind. Some might even call it a day in hell, which it just happened to coincide with.

For us, it wasn’t cobblestones that made April 11th a day of torture. It was the hail in our faces and the mud grinding between our teeth. In the weekend of (the postponed) Paris-Roubaix the Rapha Clubhouses and collaborating cafés have created rides all over the world. The routes are all inspired by the French pavé, (cobblestones) but since Sweden lacks these we ride over gravé instead.

The ultimate rain cycling gear test

The route that Malmö’s Rapha café Musette had planned for us consisted of gravel, trails, fields, rubble and thanks to the rain, tire-sucking mud. After sharing an inspirational story on our Instagram account, upselling cycling in the rain the day before our own ride we should’ve seen it coming. Time to practice what we preached.

One of the positives sides we talked about was getting to test your rain gear. We learned that smart layering is really important. Robin learned it the hard way, because after only ten kilometres even his base layer was soaked. The strong west wind was doing its uttermost best to keep us from picking up speed. We were hit with a mix of wet snow, rain and hail. And hail hurts when it hits your cold face.

How long until you cave?

If you follow us on Strava you may have already seen that we are both training a lot in preparation for an ultra race. We are both getting stronger, but Robin has a lead on Sabina. So when we cycle together, the headwind and loose gravel climbs launch Sabina to heart rate zone 3 where Robin comfortably stays in the lower region of zone 2. Because she was working so hard Sabina didn’t get that cold, even when wet. Robin did.

About 32 kilometres in we had to stop for a short snack break. With our big gloves completely soaked up by the rain, it was almost impossible to get at our bars and banana. When balling our hands in a fist we could feel the water running down our sleeves. Getting the gloves back on again proved to be even harder. The inner fleece lining stuck against our skin while we wiggled our cold fingers back in. After a few very silent moments Robin finally said it out loud: ‘I don’t want to ride the entire loop’.

Enjoying cycling in the rain

Here we can insert a bunch of excuses, explaining why shortening the route was the only reasonable and logic thing to do. But we won’t. Instead, we chose to not turn straight around, but make another little loop on Häckeberga’s gravel roads.

We were surprised by the biggest herd of deer we have ever seen. It must’ve been hundreds, and they all crossed the road right in front of us. As we slipped and slide over the muddy single trails everything got covered in mud. It must have been the most comic thing to see. By now we had also got used to the excruciating sound of the dirt sanding down our chain and breaks. Knowing that we had to endure the cold not four, but only two more hours also helped cheer up our mood a bit.

Strengths and weaknesses

This ride really pointed out our strengths and weaknesses. Sabina is mentally strong and is good at keeping a positive mindset. Even when the road ahead isn’t looking all peaches and cream. Physically Robin has the advantage where he isn’t just stronger, he can also push his body a bit further.

Finding your weaknesses is an amazing opportunity. It gives you space to grow and become a better cyclist and human being. But to be able to see them, from time to time, you do have to put yourself through a Day in Hell.

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12 April 2021
Ride report: The Dirty Halland gravel route – An epic cycling adventure in Sweden
We have been on long rides before, but a 160+ kilometre gravel route? That’s something new. Last Friday we rode the Dirty Halland, and we can highly recommend it to every gravel fanatic that is looking for a good challenge. With tired legs, but a camera roll filled with awesome shots we share with you our ride report.

The Dirty Halland 2021

The Dirty Halland was initially planned as an event, but we all know how small the chances are of those happening these days. Luckily organizer Team Cyklamera decided to change the setup and released the route for everyone to cycle it independently. The route consisted of an extremely well put together combination of hard packed gravel roads, a few punchy climbs and some single trails to keep the mind sharp.

Gravel, sandy single track and rocky climbs

We started the route at the train station in Halmstad and climbed our way out of the city. Cold muscles and steep gradient, a perfect way to start every ride. After about six kilometres we finally hit the gravel in Sperlingsholm, a nice little teaser as turned out. After another short stretch on asphalt, we wouldn’t see much of that for a while. From here on it was gravel, sandy single track and rocky climbs almost all the way.

Our long distance cycling technique

Our longest route to this date had been about 120 kilometres, so we knew we needed a bit of a strategy. Something that had worked really well for us in India, was breaking up the long rides in blocks. We decided on 25 kilometres and breaks timed at 5 minutes each. The first break happened to be at a beautiful little lake, the Bredaredssjön.

Gravel cycling in Halland’s nature reserves

We followed the trail along the lake through the Hule Nature reserve. The gravel road kept going on and on in one straight line. Perfect for picking up some off-road speed. The road ran parallel from the main car road, and we were so pleased not to have to ride on that. We need more of those secondary gravel roads here in Skåne too.

After one of those typical sleepy little countryside towns, where the entire yard is covered in memorabilia such as rusted old Volvo’s and a big pile of other unrecognizable machinery, we rode into Alenäs nature reserve. The gravel here was made up of slightly bigger rocks and the short but sharp climbs rapidly followed one and another. At the 50 kilometre mark we stopped for our second break, again timed on 5 minutes.

Mind tricks of cycling with headwind

It was after this break that a slight panic set in for Sabina. There was still more than 110 kilometres to go, and headwind can play dirty tricks on someone’s mind. Luckily the road turned and as the wind stopped gushing in our face, the worry made place for enjoyment of the beautiful surroundings.

Steep gravel riding climbs

For about ten kilometres the trail went up and down, testing our climbing legs, but the real test was still to come. After a long descent we had a big climb ahead of us on chunky gravel. It was here Robin realized he couldn’t shift to his biggest gear. While Sabina was spinning up slowly on her 52t sprocket like Froome, Robin clenched his jaw and grinded it up all the way up to the top. The spectacular view at the top was the perfect reward for our effort.

All this hard work had started to wear a bit on Robin, it’s a good thing we usually take turns in when we feel the lows on our rides. On one of the long straight gravel stretches in a deforested area we had a very silent break at the 75k mark.

Refuelling in Torup

Up until this point we had been fuelling on nuts, energy and candy bars, so we were quite happy when we came to Torup the first town that had an actual supermarket. We always struggle a bit to find which foods are right on long rides like these, so we usually just pick whatever we crave for that moment. So not exactly your healthy well-balanced diet.

Sabina’s shopping list

chicken teriyaki wrap

banana (which she didn’t eat)

donut

protein chocolate milkshake

triple shot espresso energy drink

Robin’s shopping list

pulled pork wrap

iced cappuccino

Coca-Cola

salami chips

2 kex chocolate bars (which he didn’t eat)

candy

bottle of water (which was unnecessary since there turned out to be a water tap next to us)

Why gravel beats road cycling

After our meal in the supermarket corridor, next to the gum ball machine we followed the road to continue our Dirty Halland tour. It was turning noticeably darker and the overcast was turning in to a dark shade of grey. A few spatters of rain fell down on us, but absolutely not enough to drown our spirits. We did decide to skip out on the little sidetour to Mossared and just follow the beautiful puddle filled stretch of gravel from Häshult all the way to the Bosgårdsvägen. Plenty of climbs to come and a long way still to go.

We zigzagged through beautiful forest and nature reserves and the kilometres were flying by. When we hit a few stretches of asphalt we could really feel the difference in speed. Tarmac is faster, but those cars are a pain. The majority of Swedish drivers are very friendly and ride around us with a lot of room between us. But some really don’t seem to understand how dangerous it is when they race so close by, one even pushing Robin off the road onto the verge.

Gravel cycling in Biskopstorps Nature reserve

The part through Biskopstorps Nature reserve was yet another highlight of this route. After a long climb, with a short breather to pet the curious cows, we descended all the way to Kvibille. Here we bought a sugary drink, to get us through the last stretch. Blue hour had set in and Sabina was at the end of her rope. With just 20 more kilometres to push through, Robin somehow felt stronger now at the end than at the start of the ride.

Cycling in the dark

We had calculated that we would ride in the dark, but we didn’t have a lot of experience with that yet. So a technical descent in the nature area just east of Gullbrandstorp became a whole new challenge. Our torches were bright enough to light up all the tree roots, potholes and big rocks on the trail. But our tired minds were not sharp enough to catch all of them in time. So we carefully made our way down and bumped and hopped over the mud piles and rocks that we missed catching on time, but our chunky tires could easily handle for us.

Making our way down we could see the city lights of Halmstad in the distance. The finish line was now literally in sight. We crossed the farmlands on the last stretches of gravel, and before we knew it we recognized the road along the open air museum Hallandsgården which we had passed this morning at the start of the route.

The train back to Malmö

Back at the train station we had exactly 5 minutes to quickly buy something to eat for the two-hour train ride back to Malmö. In the train scrolling through our camera roll we knew that we wanted to share this adventure with you as soon as possible. We hope you enjoy it as much as we have. A big thank you for Team Cyklamera for piecing the route together, it was a beautiful day!

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27 March 2021