Farawayistan

Author: Robin & Sabina

Georgia part II

The higher we go in to the mountains, the more beautiful nature seems to get. It’s hard work, but definitely worth all our trouble. Not only nature, the day to day life is also different when you’re high up. It’s hard living, because you have to manage with what you’ve got. And a ride to the grocery store is a real undertaking, which requires a 4×4 and a 4 hour ride. Most products are produced by the family’s own animals, and absolutely nothing goes to waste. We love it.

After a few hard days on the bicycle, we took two much needed days off. One for resting, laundry, maintenance, writing and editing and the other for a big hike. There is so much stuff to do around bicycle touring. Of course everything gets really dirty, and at times it can be hard to clean properly. Bolts on the bikes had come loose from trembling on bad roads. The maintenance and all the chores make it almost like a full time job.

Hiking to the Abudelauri lakes

At night we prepared to leave early the next day, and packed our backpacks for a hike to the Abudelauri lakes. The lakes are situated in far north of the eastern part of Caucasus Mountains at an altitude of 2812m at the foot of the Chaukhi Massif. Many hikers pass only two lakes (the blue and the green) on the trek from Juta to Roshka. We decided we wanted to camp at the last white lake.

The white lake is at the foot of a glacier, and since it’s so hard to get there we were the only ones. The only company we had was an eagle that kept calling from the surrounding peaks. Being so far away from the habited world, almost felt a bit eery. We knew there were wolves and bears in this area and we could hear stones crashing down from the glacier.

Stargazing

A bunch of stones falling down in the middle of the night scared the heck out of us. Robin looked out the tent, and shouted out ‘WOW, look at this!’. All clouds had disappeared and the sky was clearer than ever. We could even see the Milky Way. It was beautiful, but also very cold. So Sabina only stuck her head out of the tent, to stare up to the sky. Robin tried to take some pictures of the night sky, but it was very difficult with focussing and lacking a tripod.

We woke up early the next morning to hike back to the guesthouse in Roshka. A car (which turned out not being the 4×4 we expected!) would drive us and the bicycles to Telavi. It was the same road back and we were not feeling it, having to do that again. The hike and the previous days on the bikes had exhausted us. We were in much need of some pampering.

Meeting Spokeandworld in Telavi

Towards Telavi the landscape changed rapidly. The Caucasus made room for lush green vineyards and fruit plantations. Watermelons and peaches were sold by the road, and Sabina was happy to see that these roads were also becoming flatter.

In Telavi we met up with Kat and Lewis from Spokeandworld. They started their journey in Thailand in February, and cycle to Lewis’ relatives in Ibiza. We had been following them for a while and it was really nice to hang out and bombard them with all of our questions. They gave us a bunch of tips, like the iOverlander app, for finding camp sites and invited us to a WhatsApp group with people cycling the Silk road. Super useful!

Meeting with Kat and Lewis also cleared the air between the two of us. Over the last couple of days, being so exhausted and impressed by everything, things had been a little tense at times. Sabina was more quiet than usually, which worried Robin. Meeting friends and having such a lovely time was just what we needed. We can’t thank Kat and Lewis enough.

Georgian wines in Kakheti

Telavi is situated in Kakheti, Georgia’s premier wine region. Georgian wine is known for its gorgeous amber color. In Kakheti you can enjoy wine tastings for a very fair price at hundreds of vineyards. We payed a visit to the Shumi winery, and tasted three amazing wines made from Georgian grapes. But drinking wine and cycling don’t go well together. Those glasses made the last kilometers a giant struggle.

We were absolutely beat, once again. It was over 40 degrees celsius, and we were on a main road. Finding a camp spot would be impossible, and there were only sketchy road side hotels. We decided to cycle in to a side street away from the main road. It was only going uphill, and it didn’t look like there was going to be a suitable patch of grass to pitch our tent.

Part of the family

All sweaty and looking like a hot mess, Sabina decided it was time to ask for help. She walked up a porch where she could hear people talking. It was an entire family, pealing a big pile of hazelnuts. They immediately invited us in and offered us to stay for dinner and spend the night before they even knew our names. Ekka, the daughter in the family and her boyfriend spoke English and translated everything. They told us about her family, their business and their home. It was the weekend, so her brother who works near Tbilisi and his friend were also home.

We felt very much at home in their warm and loving family. They fired up the barbecue and grilled big shaslicks, served their family wine and treated us to a traditional feast. It is truly unbelievable how hospitable and welcoming the Georgians are. It gave us so much energy.

Praise and croissants

Kat and Lewis told us they really liked Sighnagi, and looking at pictures we were also looking forward to the little town on top of a hill (it’s still Georgia, so mountains). It had brutal sections with climbs from 10-14%. But those made the view at the top extra rewarding. A lovely Belgian couple we met at the viewing point, made it even better by praising us and feeding us the best little cinnamon croissants ever.

Not a day goes by, without people telling us we are doing something amazing. This is extremely motivating every single time. Telling someone they are strong and admirable, gives an enormous boost. We should tell it to each other all the time, if you ask me.

Smooth hairpin turns and a stunning view

Sighnaghi was a beautiful little town, with cobble stones and old buildings. We can see why it attracts a lot of people. For us however, it was the descend on the other side of the mountain that made our day. Not having to paddle for a few kilometers, gorgeous smooth hairpin turns and a stunning view. Simply amazing.

Bring your water bottle

Our destination today was Lagodekhi national park. We spotted a camp site on the iOverlander map near a hiking trail to a water fall. The camp site was by the ranger station at the start of the hike. When we finally arrived after a long sneaky climb, it was like we had cycled onto the ground of a music festival. There were loads of people barbecuing, making music and drinking and shouting. The place was littered, and there was a big group of stray dogs, waiting for slim pickings.

At night, when most people had left, the dogs where howling and fighting. A group of young people was still playing loud music. To make matters worse it started raining like crazy, having us run to the bikes to properly close the bags.

Not really knowing what to expect after last nights mayhem, we decided to chance it and go on the hike anyway. We are very happy we did, because it was truly a gem. The river made the temperature much more comfortable and the green forrest provided some welcoming shade. The trail was challenging, but very well marked which made it easy to follow. We had forgotten our water bottle at the beginning of the trail, which caused a short moment of stress. But we decided to drink straight from the stream, just not too much.

Waterfalls and friends

It wasn’t for too long when a Dutch couple, Daan and Evelien (who had also run out of water, wasn’t just us!), caught up on us, with a cute dog that had been following them the whole trail. We walked together and shared travel stories. It’s a shame we never got to meet up after the hike, but they were traveling in the opposite direction as us. We exchanged numbers and shared some tips from time to time.

After a short climb we had reached the destination of the hike, a 14 meter high waterfall. Stoked we had finally reached it, we changed into our swimwear and jumped into the ice cold water. After a while we were joined by Dachi and Matthijs. Dachi is from Tbilisi and his boyfriend Matthijs from The Netherlands. They immediately invited us for dinner and to spend the night at Dachi’s family’s vacation house in Lagodekhi.

Soviet museum

It was only 10 kilometers from our camping spot, so after the hike we packed up our tent and cycled to the house. Along the way we were joined by Jonas. A 20 year old cyclist from Germany. He joined us and Dachi and Matthijs were so generous, they also let him stay the night.

Dachi was very humble about the house, and warned us it wasn’t very comfortable. For us it was an amazing experience, for it was like we walked into a museum of the Soviet era. He had his grandmothers Soviet passport and old family portraits on the walls. He appointed us a huge bed, and there was a warm shower and electricity so what more could we ask for.

Our last night in Georgia

After washing up, we went to a bizarre Soviet-like restaurant with local traditional food. Dachi also showed us how to properly eat khinkali (Georgian dumplings). On our final day in Georgia, it was about time we learnt! Apparently you have to turn the dumpling upside down, whilst holding it on the top. Then you bite a small hole in it. From this hole, you drink the broth. Now you can eat the rest of the dumpling, except for the top part. This is only dough and not meant to be eaten.

We also learned some sign language, since Matthijs is deaf. This however never stopped him from leading an amazing life. He has traveled to an astonishing number of countries, 54 to be exact. Dachi translated everything, which was also remarkable, since he had only started to learn sign six months ago. But maybe the best part of staying with Dachi and Matthijs, was seeing how much in love they are. This sparked a renewed appreciation in us for our relationship, for how special our it is and how lucky we are that we can share this together.

It was our last night in Georgia, and a perfect one we will cherish and remember. Georgia’s majestic nature might have tried to break us, but the people we met glued up all the cracks and left us stronger than ever. We are ready for the next country, Azerbaijan here we come.

You can find all our pictures of Georgia in the gallery.

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3 August 2019
Georgia part I

Gamarjorbat! It’s been only a week, but we are both exhausted. At this moment we are regaining some much needed energy in a wonderful guesthouse in Roshka in the Georgian mountains near the Chechen and Dagestan border. Clouds fall like waterfalls over the surroundings peaks. But before we show you the beauty of this far away village, let us tell you how we got here.

Months of preparing all came together in one hectic, emotional day. It was time to say goodbye to our family. The bikes and bags were packed in three enormous boxes, transportation was arranged, now all we needed to do was get our asses on that plane. The airline luckily waved the fee for our overweight box, and even though we had a short transfer everything went extremely smoothly.

A Caucasus adventure

After some hours of sleep in our hostel, we assembled the bikes and went on the hunt for some food. Bicycles are a rarity in Tbilisi, so we were spotted by a Swiss biketouring couple right away. They started their journey at home, and are also heading for Kyrgyzstan. We however, plan on a caucasus adventure before crossing borders to Azerbaijan.

On Bikepacking.com Robin found a route that would take us trough the great Caucasus. An undiscovered part of Georgia with small villages highly tucked away. We had no idea if it would be doable with our touring bike set up, weighing up to 40 kg each. But hey, if you don’t try, you’ll never know.

Cycling in Tbilisi

After some inquiries at a local mountainbike shop, which was also up a very gnarly hill, we decided to see how far we could get. But not before spending a couple of days in the city, falling in love with all the cute Tbilisi cats. Enjoying the luxury that is called ice coffee, and nourishing ourselves with healthy meals at Georgian restaurants.

Cycling in the city is a real adrenaline rush. Cars race by, honking to present their awareness. Even the one cycle path we encountered wasn’t safe, since pedestrians are not used to bicycles they walk on them, texting on their phones and lighting their cigarettes. Even strollers with babies are parked on the cycle path. Ringing your bell has absolutely zero effect. Much to our humor as we closely pass by texting pedestrians on the bike lane, after ringing our bells numerously with no respond or sign that we are noted.

The mountains are calling

We quickly got fed up with the smog in the city and the mountains were calling upon us. It was time to gather all of our belongings, and click our bags on our steel frames. From here on it’s cycling time. First stop, the lake by Chinti.

When we finally exit the highway for a somewhat quieter main road, realization of how heavy our bikes are kick in. Our first climb, still on asphalt, leaves us pondering if this was a bad idea. Robin takes some weight off Sabina’s bike and we climb further in the staggering heat. Let’s stick to the plan, see how far we can get. One step at a time. There’s no way we’ll make it to Chinti today, but that’s fine. No reason to beat ourselves up.

The fun part started when we left the asphalt and the road suddenly stopped being a road. We were still on the right track, but the grass was getting higher, and so were the torn bushes. Let’s see what these Schwalbes can have, and pray for them to make it without punctures on our first day.

Downhill we hit the last bit of main road, and from there on it was a dirt road in no man’s land. With only abandoned factories and some tiny villages miles from the road in sight. Under a big oak tree we decided to cook ourselves up some lunch. A passing car stopped to tell us there was a river just down the road where we could swim. We decided to check it our and found our very first wild camp spot. A shepherd had his cows grazing by the river, but a few hundred meters further we could pitch our tent. We bathed in the river, and rinsed our clothes. Tired from all the impressions, we quickly fell asleep.

Off the main roads

The next morning it looked like there had been an explosion in our tent. Not used to such a confined space, we just threw our stuff everywhere. This needed to change because all was lost and nothing to be found. Getting ready to leave took us a staggering hour and a half.

Since all worked out well with our camp spot last night, we cycle onwards with full spirit. We were ready for leg two. The road passes small villages with cattle and we were often frowned upon. What are these two idiots on bicycles doing. Do they even know where they are heading? We must have earned respect nevertheless, because we were treated to loads of fruit, veggies, cola and bags of potato chips. A stop at a gas station to fill our fuel bottle we use for cooking, left the attendant in full surprise. Even more surprised were we, when we were passed by a road cyclist with a Specialized gravel racer, fully dressed in Rapha apparel. He waved at us happily, but unfortunately didn’t stop to have his picture taken.

When we started to approach the lake by Chinti, we had high hopes that a beautiful camp spot would present itself just as it did yesterday. The road however was only going up, and the lake was way further down. The climbs were getting steeper and we were pushing ourselves to our limits, having to catch our breath every five minutes.

Thankfully a truck driver noticed that we were struggling, and knowing the road we were about to face, he stopped and offered us a ride. He slung the bikes on top of the load on his truck, and we hopped in with all of our bags. The view over the lake was breathtaking. And without saying a word he dropped us off about 4 km further down the road, after the hardest part had passed. The lake was now behind us, and had turned into a river. We saw an adventure camp, just over the bridge with small vacation houses. But more important to us, a patch of flat grass. A perfect place to pitch our tent. We could take a shower (that was more of a drizzle to be honest), and bought a cold beer to share.

Climbing and climbing

The next town on our itinerary was Roshka’s guesthouse. With climbs up to 20% we knew this was going to be a challenge. By now we knew it wasn’t going to be possible to get over the Atsunta Pass (3.470 m with 40% elevation), so we decided to at least make it to Roshka and from there on adjust our route. Just when we wanted to leave last nights camp, Robin noticed a tired looking bike packer. It was Justin Bill, and he had done the route we had been planning on in the last couple of days, but in the opposite direction. (Which is supposed to be better if you’re also planning on it.) It was tough, and he looked like he had some rough couple of days behind him. He told us, there was not a chance in the world we would make it with our bikes. There were some tricky river crossings, one where he needed to wait for other people to help him pass with the help of a rope. Deep respect for Justin, and the pictures he took look amazing.

Roshka or Korsha?

Our route continued over roads that only got worse, with some very hard parts where we had to push our bikes up. Loose rocks, made us lose grip of the road. Shops were also getting scarcer, so when we finally found one we stocked up for dinner. When we planned todays route we noticed something weird. Google maps and Komoot gave a different location for Roshka. One was noticeably further and higher, and we weren’t sure which to take. Turned out the first town was actually Korsha, but by now we had cycled for almost 45 km and climbed nearly 700 m on difficult push-a-bikes. Add scorching temperatures and a luring camp spot by a river near some houses. We were done for another day.

The spot was amazing. We were out of sight from the road, had plenty of room to stall our bicycles and hang our laundry. And when we went on the hunt for some tap water, we were invited to a lovely Georgian meal. We enjoyed khinkali (spicy dumplings), khachapuri (cheese pie) and some mtsvadi (barbecue roasted meat). Toasting with vodka was also part of the deal. Our hosts were celebrating a local holiday, where they honor their ancestors. It takes place for a week, and every day the holiday moves to the next village up the hill. We toasted to family, passed away but also fiercely alive. To the children and to the beautiful country. After five or six vodkas we kindly excused ourselves. We had a very steep climb ahead of us the next day.

Bike touring life

By now, we were starting to get the hang of this touring life. Packing up, making breakfast, route planning. It was all going a lot faster. After a false start, some bolts on Sabina’s bike had loosened from the bumpy ride, we were off too our last leg to Roshka. The road continued to worsen, and road workers laughed out loud when we cycled by. They offered us a lift when they passed us in their truck, but we declined. We are here to cycle after all.

Our Wahoo showed us, we had to take a sharp turn to get off the main road and make our way up a very steep hill. We pushed our bikes, but it was nearly impossible. They were simply too heavy. A car passed by, and fortunately the driver agreed to take our bags up the hill to Roshka’s guesthouse. Lifting 40 kg’s of our bikes. Now we only had water, our camera’s and some snacks to carry. But if you think this meant we could cycle up, think again. The road was too steep, and in too bad of shape. Temperature was rising, and the previous days were still in our legs. Sabina got so frustrated, and Robin tried his best to motivate her but he was struggling too. Mountains can break you, and that’s exactly what happened.

Cry and laugh, and cry some more

Tired and mad that it was so hard, Sabina burst in to tears. With only 2 km to go, and about 200 m to climb, she cried and laughed about it and then cried again. We picked ourselves up, and the reward felt great when we finally set eyes on the small village. It felt like we had reached heaven high in the clouds. We had finally reached the hardest part. Now it’s time to rest.

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24 July 2019
Saving enough money to cycle the world

While we cycle the world, we will have no income. That means we have to live from our savings. So how did we save enough money? We didn’t have trees growing free cash in our backyard, or dollar bills raining from the sky into our wallet. This is how we saved enough money to cycle the world.

Thankfully, we both had the opportunity to get a college degree. Sabina worked full time for five years, and Robin for two. This means that we had an average income. We didn’t want to seek other employment that would be better paid, since we both liked where we were. Our normal wages had to do.

(All pictures in this post were made on our trip to Zeeland)

How to get control over your finances

Do you actually know how much money you spend? You probably know how much your boss pays you. But do you also know where it all goes?

Sabina used to transfer money to her savings account directly when she got paid. At the end of the month, small chips of the big chunk went back to the debit card to pay the bills. She had no idea how much money was really available, since it all went back and forth.

Robin paid for a lot of stuff with his credit card, so he basically paid for it a month later. But guess what, one month later he already forgot he spent it. So sometimes the bill would add up. Add unexpected expenses, like dentist bills and the financial control is far gone.

Make a budget spreadsheet

It was time to get back in control. And there is only one very tedious way to do so. We made a budget spreadsheet, and wrote down every euro that came in and out.

This is when we started to notice how much unnecessary stuff we bought. Snacks at the train station, whilst commuting to work. Very expensive nights out with friends (you’ll have just as much fun, maybe even more, on three beers instead of nine). And all sorts of subscriptions, like Netflix, the gym and magazines.

We weighed every single euro that we spent, since we knew we had to put it in the spreadsheet and justify it. This might seem childish, but how badly do you want to cycle the world? No one ever said it was easy or fun.

How to save money

Here’s a list of things we saved a lot of money on.

Housing

Can you find a cheaper option? And think about it, the smaller the space, the less stuff (money) you need to fill it.

We rented a house from a Dutch organization called Villex. They basically let people live in empty houses, waiting to be demolished. We had a three month notice, but luckily the houses weren’t torn down before our departure date. This meant we could rent a three bedroom-house for €400 a month. Well worth the risk.

A friend of Sabina who’s also saving for a world trip, found a different approach for budget friendly living. She resides in a tiny house in her friends yard. Here’s to say there are plenty of ways to save money on housing. You just have to get creative.

Telephone bills

Do you really need that new iPhone with the expensive subscription? Sabina bought a secondhand iPhone when her old one broke down. Our subscription was about €16 a month. There are plenty of cheap options out there.

Netflix, Spotify, library, etc.

Do you really need it, or can you maybe join a family account? We spent € 10 a month. We could’ve saved more here, but you do need some entertainment once in a while.

Health care and insurance

Do not save on this, you might need it. And then it will cost you a lot.

Car

Can you get financial compensation for the distance you cover for work? And when you need to park your car, are there cheaper or maybe free options instead, just a stroll longer? Don’t forget to include gas and insurance in your budget. Selling it also helps. 😉

Groceries

Make a weekmenu, buy groceries at a budget supermarket and most importantly, stick to the menu! This was a hard one, since we’re two lazy mf’ers who like take-away and potato chips.

We used discount codes for meal boxes, and bought fruits and veggies that weren’t the prettiest but therefor cheaper. There are plenty organizations that sell food for a cheaper price, which would otherwise be discarded.

Clothing

You can make money on this. Instead of buying clothes, you can sell the ones you have. As Marie Kondo would say, ‘does it spark joy’? If it doesn’t, sell it. Sabina had a challenge to not buy new clothes for a year. It was actually very easy to do. Eventually Robin’s wardrobe made a great substitute for fashion boutiques.

Gym membership

Unnecessary if you plan to cycle the world for a year. You have a bicycle, go and cycle. And do Yoga With Adriene instead of an expensive yoga class. YouTube can help you train at home in all sorts of ways.

Leisure

We treated ourselves to one cultural getaway a month. A concert or a visit to a museum. Life has to stay fun, even when you’re saving up. Instead of dinner in restaurants with friends, we invited them home or went for a walk in the woods.

Become a minimalist

But the one thing that really helped us, was getting in touch with our minimalist mentality. And it didn’t just effect our bank account. Less stuff makes your mind less cluttered too.

Save the head space you use, when you try to decide which shoes you’ll put on if you have more than 25 to choose from. Realizing and experiencing the benefits of this mindset, made saving much easier.

Every expense we didn’t make felt like a victory, instead of a loss. It wasn’t something we didn’t get, it is an extra meal on our journey, or a warm shower in a hotel room after a week of camping.

Find your priorities

Once you know what you really want, saving will become much easier. Ours was saving enough money to cycle the world for at least a year. Too many people spend too much on stuff they don’t want, to impress people they don’t really like. Find stuff you like and spend your money on that.

If it truly makes you happy (like our bicycles!), and it’s going to keep making you happy, splurge. But ask yourself that question every single time. Ander after that, only then swipe your card.

Disclaimer: We know that we are very privileged and have walked a road much more paved than most people on this planet. Knowing this we will try our hardest to give back to the local communities. We will buy groceries at local shops, share our food, and stay in guest houses rather than hotel chains. Tips on conscious travel are more than welcome in the comments bellow or send us a dm on Instagram!

9 July 2019
Touring bicycles to ride far

Choosing the right touring bike wasn’t easy. After hours of research, and countless discussions we ended up buying something completely different from what we expected. Two Avaghon steel touring bicycles, ready to hit some sturdy roads.

How to choose a Touring bicycle

When you say touring bike, most people think of Surly and their disc trucker. Surly makes cool bikes, but was not very easily available in our area. As the bike motion was coming up, a huge annual bike fair, we decided to shop around a bit more. We took a look at the Kona Sutra and the Salsa Marrakesh, Santos, Specialized and Bombtrack. All the different brands and their bikes were making our heads spin.

(more…)

7 May 2019
Iran part IV – Bam & Bandar, driving south

We drive further down south, towards the warmth of the Persian gulf.

For the third time we pass Kerman, this time on our way to mister Akhbar in Bam. But after only ten minutes on the road we are stopped by the police. The officer didn’t speak English and our Farsi isn’t so good either. We’re guessing we were speeding and hand over Robin’s drivers licence. After some gesturing and writing out a fine for us, the police men lets us continue our journey. Later we find out is is indeed a speeding ticket, and we should’ve gone to the bank to pay the 600.000 Rials. Sounds like a lot of money, but isn’t more than €10. We keep it as a souvenir and hope they won’t give us any problems at the border for not paying a speeding ticket.

Mahan and Rayen

The Lonely Planet is our tour guide today and we have three stops planned. The mausoleum and the beautiful garden in Mahan and the ancient citadel in Rayen. The citadel is ike a huge sand castle, you can climb on and wander. Outside the citadel we spot a shepherd with his flock. Bam wasn’t on our itinerary, but the drive from Kerman to Bandar Abbas is way too long for just one day. And now we get some sightseeing on our way too!

Pulled over again

The second time we are being pulled over today, we found a better tactic. As other drivers simply accelerate and madly wave their arms at the officers, we decide to have a friendly chat instead. The chat isn’t more than saying Holland, Holland and naming Dutch football players, but hey, it works. No ticket this time, just a great portrait instead.

Mister Akhbar’s guesthouse

When we finally reach mister Akhbar’s guesthouse we are welcomed with a pot of hot tea, and no one else to find. After knocking on a lot of doors and ringing door bells, Robin has the fantastic idea to ask the neighbours. It’s mister Akhbar’s son, and he runs a small travel agency with great enthusiasm. Almost such great enthusiasm that we nearly end up changing all of our plans and head to Chabahar instead of Qeshm directly. Chabahar is towards the Pakistani border and it means a lot of extra driving. It’s also deep in the red zone, of the Dutch governments travel advice.

Mister Akhbar convinces us during dinner in his living room that we take it easy and head to Qeshm for a couple days of relaxing. Rushing through cities doesn’t give you time to truly appreciate them. We follow his advice, he has seen them coming and going since 1973, when he first opened his guesthouse. We watch the news about the yellow vests together and we share how we celebrate Christmas where we’re from. He is delighted with our gift, a small snow globe with a christmas three. It get’s a prominent place on a shelve above the television.

Early morning

The next morning we finally succeed in leaving at the planned time, for the first time this trip. We have one more try at fixing the SIM card, but the shop is closed. We’re still offline, and we’re fine with it too be fair.

Today we drive trough the mountains, and even spot a stream with water! The government gets a lot of criticism for poor water management with the dams that are built. This leaves a big part of the country without water in the already dry environment. Ever since our cappuccinos on the way back from the Kaluts, we have tried to find them again. We search the shops in the small trucker towns we pass, but without success. We do find people with faces that tell stories on their own. Poor goats in trucks on their way to the slaughter house, and sunflower seeds that the shop owner weighs with an old fashioned scale with weights.

27 January 2019
Iran part III – Kaluts in cold Kerman

We drive deeper into Iran and cross more deserts and Martian like landscapes.

A typical travelers breakfast in hostels and guesthouses in Iran consist of flat white bread (in many different forms!), cucmber and tomatoe, white cheese and some carrot jam. When you’re lucky, sometimes a boiled egg. Not quite a solid base for a +7 hour drive, but we have some snacks (biscuits, salt & vinegar chips and fruit) for on the way.

Driving on Friday

Traffic is less hectic today since it’s Friday, which can be compared to our Sunday. We drive through the desert, and despite what you might expect, the scenery never gets boring. We drive through hills, see grand mountains and wide plains. At gas stations we see families and pick ups with goat and sheep in the back. The rising full moon and the reflection of the last sunbeams on the mountains is a beautiful sight. Iranian sunsets never dissapoint.

Sunset also means car lighting. But not before it’s really dark. Otherways other drivers will kindly warn you, your lighting is on with blinding driving beams. Plus points if your car has crazy blue and red LED lights.

Yalda night in Dasht-e Khak

Arriving late in the small town Dasht-e Khak we still need to find Hamid’s homestay. Not having a phone we ask for help at a small store. A shopper knows Hamid, but I guess everyone knows each other here, and he leads us the way on his motor cycle with a plastic bag with mushrooms in his hand.

Hamid and his family warmly welcome us in their home. It’s Yalda night, a winter solstice celebration. Hamid cranks up the fireplace, where later the kebabs will be grilled on. First we enjoy sunflower seeds, pomegranate, sweet lemons and Havez poems. An uncle has a special little barbecue where he keeps glowing coals on for his opium pipe. No pictures please.

Finally, the kaluts

Nights are very cold in the Kerman region, so cold they have Robin wrapping himself up like an Eskimo. Crazy to think we are driving to the place we’re the hottest temperature ever was registered by NASA. 71 degrees Celsius to be exact. We are going to see the Kaluts in the Dasht-e-Lut desert. Thankfully it isn’t that hot this time of year. It’s even snowing in the mountains we drive through to get to the desert!

The drive is long (180 km) and we only stop for a short lunch break with some Gorme sahbzi in the city Kerman. The scenery is spectacular as always. When we get closer to the Kaluts the landscape suddenly changes. The sand in the desert isn’t like the fine sand we expect. It’s rock solid. We also don’t really know what to expect from the Kaluts, but when the appear in the distance we are blown away with the grandiosity.

Not only in the figurative speech actually. The wind is fierce, but that creates a mystic view of dancing sand storms between gigantic rock formations.

Christmas at the Caravanserai

Hamid calls us to warn us, that we can’t stay too long. We have a long drive back waiting for us and Hamid is worried about the snow in the mountains. We do have time for one more stop. An ancient abandoned caravanserai. A caravanserai was a roadside inn where travelers could rest and recover from the day’s journey. A perfect location to snap our Christmas card.

Missing coffee

On the way back, we stop once for some sweets and prefab iced cappuccino’s. Which to our surprise aren’t half bad (might be caused by the lack of coffee you get in Iran). The red rising full moon awes us once more. We thank our driver, and shake his hand.. at least Robin does. Sabina forgot the local customs and he refuses, whoops, how embarrassing.

27 January 2019
Iran part II – To Esfahan in a Peugeot Pars

After sightseeing in Tehran we hit the road. First on our route is Esfahan.

We decided to rent our own car, to drive all the way to the South of Iran. We’ve read that the roads are fine, plus it spares us a lot of time in the short two weeks that we have. No waiting for busses, figuring out how to get to the busstop, buying tickets and we can drive and stop for pictures whenever we want.

We pay about 19 euro’s per day, and 110 euro’s extra, for returning the car in Bandar Abbas. Our badass Peugeot Pars, maybe isn’t the Paykan Robin dreamed of, but it sure is an authentic Iranian (brand new) car.

Driving in Tehran

Traffic in Tehran is pretty hectic, and the roundabouts require utmost concentration. Motors and other cars pop up out of nowhere, and lanes don’t exist. You don’t get the right of way, you simply demand it. It’s almost as a miracle how this functions without people crashing into each other every other second.

On our first stop, one and a half our in, Sabina suddenly realises she left her coat in the hostel in Tehran. Inside the jacket? Wallet, including debet and creditcard. We still have three more hours of driving to do, so returning is no option. With no working sim card, we can’t reach the hostel. We find wifi and send them a message on Instagram and Facebook if they can keep it safe for us. Thankfully, the cards are useless in Iran.

No money!

In the North of Iran we come across some toll roads. The operator doesn’t realise we are tourists at first, but when he looks down at us a big smile appears on his face. Mister, where are you from. No money! Sabina however doesn’t always get the same VIP treatment with her darker appearance. So yes, it’s true, especially in Iran. Blondes do have more fun.

Visiting Iran in December means short days. Sunset is around five, and it gets dark really fast after that. This however treats us at the most wonderful views of the cascading sun and the beautiful colours it casts on the mountains. It also means driving in the dark a lot. We were hoping for star filled skies, but the nearly full moon is too bright. The moon does make it easier to drive in the dark, which we end up doing multiple times on behalf of late departure.

Near-death sanitary stop

On our last sanitary stop, just before we drive into the city Isfahan, the one thing we were needing most (a lovely and always so clean squat toilet) is nowhere to be found. Behind an old building it is then. Sabina walks a bit further, so she doesn’t scare of the local truck drivers with her own private full moon.

Pants on her knees, she hears dogs barking. And it’s coming closer. It’s coming closer fast. She sprints, heart is racing, and she barely makes it to the car before the huge pack of wild dogs devour her. Only to see, whilst safe and well in the car, that the two dogs are actually still about 5 meters away. Still counts as a near death experience in Sabina’s opinion.

Early morning

Construction starts early in Isfahan. We are woken up by the sound of a grinding machine. The brand new Mahbibi hostel we are staying is good, but not very pecial. However, their tour guide Armin definitely makes up for our rough awakening.

Today we tag along with Armin and his intern (a.k.a. his daughter). He shows us the shops, where the souvenirs still are handmade. Copper vasues with handglued rocks, tiles with the typical blue color (we even have a go at it ourselves!) and copper and brass plates with beautiful patterns precisely hammered into them. Imagine hammering away for over 45 years, the ticking sound all day. We would go mad within a week.

Naqsh-e Jahan Square

The highlight of the day is a visit to the big mosque of the shah at Naqsh-e Jahan Square. We bribe the securityguard and he secretly hands us the key to one of the minarets. We don’t want to get caught so we sneak up and we crawl over the ground, where we can be seen from outside of the mosque. The narrow spiral staircase of the 48 meter high minaret is pitchblack, but small air windows give us a sneak peak on the extraordinary view we are about to get.

Saffron icecream

After such adventure we cool down with traditional saffron icecream on the square. Our guide’s favourite, the vendor has even memorised his security code for his debetcard. You know how they tell you to never share your code with anyone and keep it secret at all times? Not in Iran!

We had already been surprised with the question what our code was, but apparently this is completely normal. Why even bother having a code? No idea, Iran is weird sometimes.

Later we enjoy more Persian cuisine. Well, Robin does. As a vegetarian healthfreak, life in Iran isn’t always easy. Meals are mainly about lamb or a different form of meat and white rice. Today we get Beryani, a traditional food in Isfahan and Dizi, Iran’s national dish.

After we stack up on some saffron (2 grams for €10, a bargain for us!), we head to the Armenian quarter to visit the Cathedral and take a selfie with Santa.

Private mini-concert

When evening falls in Isfahan, we strongly reccomend you find one of the historical bridges, crossing the now dry Zayanderud (life giver) river. The bridges serve as a place for public gatherings, where men and boys sing together. Here we also spot our very first Western tourist!

27 January 2019
Iran part I – Amsterdam to Tehran

In December 2018 we traveled to Iran. This is how we got there.

It is almost hard to believe that we actually have just woken up in Amsterdam. Due to bad weather and extreme thick fog, half of the flights to Schiphol were cancelled. And that’s exactly where we are flying from today, to Teheran via Istanbul. Luckily ours wasn’t cancelled, it was even in time! What lucky bastards we are.

Being too cheap to spend way too much money on hotel breakfast, we take the shuttle bus (also free of course) to the airport and buy some food at Albert Heijn instead. Our last breakfast that isn’t bread, tomatoes and cucumber!

Next to us on our first flight, we talk to a young boy sitting next to us. He’s from Sweden and is also going to Iran to visit relatives. Before moving to Sweden they lived in Istanbul and before that Iran. We never ask where he’s from originally, but based on his facial features we guess Afghanistan. Approximately 3 million Afghans have fled to Iran since the start of the war.

Funny Dutch people

When we enter our flight from Istanbul to Tehran we already stand out quite a bit. 3 dutch speaking guys even laugh out loud when they see us. What are we even going to do in Iran, they ask us. Way too expensive, according to them.

Later, when we stand in line at the customs we speak to them again. They are also from Afghanistan and for two of them, it is their first time (back) in Iran. You can see the excitement in their eyes. Probably in ours too. Oh and guess what, when you enter the country with a European passport you don’t get a stamp. Too bad for the collectors, convenient for those who like to travel to Israel, the states and Saudi Arabia. After a long day of travelling we are welcomed in our hostel with a cup of tea, sweet dates and some well deserved rest.

Sightseeing in Tehran

Our first day in Tehran and it’s raining cats and dogs. Doesn’t matter, we can take it. The former US embassy is very close to our hostel, unfortunately we can’t go in (it’s a museum now) since they are shooting. Shooting a movie this time tho. We take some snaps in the pouring rain, and nobody really seems to care about it. Previously, the Iranians didn’t like that it’s a touristic hotspot. Nowadays they’re probably used to it.

Changes

This isn’t the only thing that has changed in Iran, over the last few years. When we take the metro to the grand bazar, Sabina joins Robin in the men’s compartment. She isn’t the only women there, and the stares we get probably aren’t for this, just for the fact that we stand out anyway. Every now and then, we get a ‘hello’ and a ‘where are you from?’ We haven’t spotted a single tourist so far.

The grand bazar is crowded, and immensely big. We wander around, and it is very nice that we don’t get pulled in to shops. At least until we get to the carpets. Apparently we look like we really need one. The vendors aren’t too aggressive, and we can easily shake them off.

Cashing it

The bazar is also the place to exchange your euros or dollars to rials. We already put our euros on our Mah card. A debit card for tourists, so we don’t have to carry around a lot of cash. The exchange rate isn’t as good, but at least we don’t have to hassle with the millions of rials. Funny thing, try entering your security code in Farsi. Most machines don’t have English numbers on them, so we have to guess the place of the numbers. Luckily, this is the same and not right to left, as Farsi writing is.

27 January 2019