This year, my dad and I embarked on our annual bikepacking trip, and we decided to explore the heart of Southern Sweden once again. Over four days, we cycled through the breathtaking regions of Österlen, Skåne, and Blekinge, immersing ourselves in the natural beauty of the Swedish countryside. Along the way, we enjoyed scenic roadside snack breaks, campfires, refreshing lake dips, and braved the inevitable rain.

The real highlight, though, was the quality time we spent together. This father-son adventure made the journey unforgettable. Read on for the highlights from our bikepacking trip through Southern Sweden!

Day 1 – Bikepacking Through Österlen: Forest Beauty and Swedish Delights

Day one kicked off with packing our bikes. For my dad, we rented a Bombtrack Munroe SG from Bienvelo Malmö, a local bike shop known for its quality rentals. After collecting the bikes, we hopped on a train from Malmö to Simrishamn, the starting point of our 275 km bikepacking journey.

Our route began in Österlen, a picturesque region along Sweden’s southeastern coast, famed for its lush green forests, rolling hills, and charming coastal scenery. Even though we encountered heavy rain showers, we embraced the elements and stopped at a local pizzeria to enjoy a Swedish favorite: kebab pizza. With our clothes soaked, we opted to stay at a hotel instead of camping on the beach as planned, which allowed us to dry off and rest well for the next day.

Day 2 – Exploring Skåne’s East Coast and Hidden Gems

Waking up to clear skies was a relief, especially with our route packed with swimming spots. We followed the east coast of Skåne, passing the breathtaking Friseboda National Park. The day’s highlights were supposed to be two nature reserves that double as military training areas. Unfortunately, military exercises were underway, so we took a detour. Luckily, it led us to a delightful coffee stop and an ice cream break.

The next leg of the journey became my favorite: the stunning gravel roads near Halen. This area, dotted with lakes, offered classic Swedish landscape views that were nothing short of magical. We ended the day at a wind shelter by a serene lake, where we enjoyed a swim and a barbecue before settling in for the night.

Day 3 – Gravel Roads, Sunshine, and Campfires in West Blekinge and East Skåne

Day three greeted us with sunshine, setting the tone for an incredible day of riding. After a cup of Aeropress coffee to start the morning, we hit the gravel roads that stretched across West Blekinge and East Skåne. The entire day was spent cycling along some of the most beautiful gravel paths I’ve ever seen, and with the sun blazing, we made frequent stops at supermarkets for ice cream, cold drinks, and iced coffee to keep cool.

Arriving at our campsite early, we found it to be a nice spot—except for the relentless swarms of mosquitos. We quickly lit a campfire to smoke them out and pitched our tent for protection. Dinner consisted of tortellini with prosciutto and cheese, paired with a couple of beers.

Day 4 – The Hidden Treasures of Höör and the Final Stretch

The final day started with sunshine as we rode through the scenic landscapes of Skåne. I was blown away by the incredible gravel roads north of Höör—a hidden gem I hadn’t known about but now plan to revisit.

Food options were scarce on this stretch, but we stumbled upon a classic Swedish roadside café serving simple sandwiches and strong, pitch-black filter coffee. It was exactly what we needed to keep going. As we ventured deeper into the agricultural lands, clouds began to roll in, but with our rain gear ready, we soaked in the beautiful contrast of vibrant green grasslands against the gray sky.

Our motivation soared as we neared Höör, knowing a warm meal awaited us before we boarded the train back to Malmö. That promise of good food and a comfortable ride home kept our spirits high as we pushed through the final stretch of our unforgettable bikepacking adventure in Southern Sweden.

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Bikepacking offers us a unique chance to explore nature and to fully immerse in the great outdoors. Riding along gravel roads on a bicycle, packed with bags carrying your camping gear, creates a magical adventure experience.

Embarking on a bikepacking journey in an incredibly beautiful natural environment, brings the whole experience to another level. We’re fortunate enough to be based in forested and lakes-dotted Sweden. But besides dreamy gravel roads and stunning nature, Sweden has another major perk to offer as the ultimate bikepacking destination: ‘Allemansrätten’ or ‘Right of Public Access’.

Allemansrätten

The allemans-what? The Swedish word ‘allemansrätten’ translates into something like ‘everyman’s right’. It refers to the legal concept of the public’s right to access and enjoy nature. This means you can pretty much access all forests, fields and roads, for recreation, exercise, and other activities – within certain legal and ethical boundaries. So, Sweden’s nature is open to all thanks to the right of public access. This also means that you can stay in most natural areas without worry, even in privately-owned forests and lands. The key words “do not disturb, do not destroy” summarize the right of public access well.

The Swedish Right of Public Access is a fantastic principle. It allows for free roaming to hike, paddle a canoe, pick berries, camp almost wherever you want – and ride bicycles as well. Of course, it is important to show consideration for landowners, animals, nature, and other people. There are some limitations to the Right of Public Access, such as when you are in sensitive environments and close to private residences. But in the vast majority of places, you can stay freely in nature.

Allemansrätten rules & regulations for bikepacking

While allemansrätten grants broad access to Sweden’s outdoors, it’s essential to be aware of regulations and local rules. Especially if we’re talking about bikepacking and camping, because these may impact your bikepacking adventure. Some areas may have restrictions on camping, particularly in environmentally sensitive areas or during certain times of the year. And good news for the trail-loving bikepacker: there isn’t a universal prohibition on cycling on hiking trails. But since the trails are designed for hiking, remember that hikers and runners have the right of way.

A few more pointers to remember: 

• It’s not permitted to cycle over plantings, gardens, forest plantations, and other sensitive areas, such as fields with growing crops.

• Avoid soft trails when the ground is wet, especially in spring and autumn. Treaded tires easily damage trails and delicate ground.

• Avoid cycling over sensitive ground types such as lichen-covered areas, rocky outcrops with mosses, soft meadows, and marshlands, to name a few examples.

• Adapt your riding style according to the terrain.

• In national parks and nature reserves, special rules may apply to cycling. It may be completely prohibited or only allowed on certain trails. On Sweden’s National Parks (https://www.sverigesnationalparker.se/en/), you can find out what applies to the specific national park.

• Riding e-bikes is not included in the allemansrätten. This means that currently, you’re not allowed to ride them on trails or freely in terrain without the landowner’s permission.

Allemansrätten in other countries

Please note that these rules only apply for Sweden. There are similar principles of the Swedish Right of Public Access in other places. As far as we know Finland, Norway, Iceland, Scotland and New Zealand have similar rules. But, they could differ somehow. In Norway, for example, you’re not allowed to pitch your tent within 150 meters of someone’s house. And when researching information for this blog, we read that you always need the permission of the landowner before lighting a campfire in Finland. So, if you’re setting out on a bikepacking adventure in one of these places, we’d recommend checking out the local regulations before freely roaming around and setting up the campfire.

Allemansrätten on private gravel roads

From all of the 300,000 kilometers of gravel roads, approximately 75,000 kilometers wind through private lands. They are often gated with barriers, but fortunately (in most instances) signs next to these gates indicate that access by foot and bike is perfectly permitted. In our three years of bikepacking in Sweden, encounters with local landowners have been positive – a simple greeting often is enough. Even during the rare situations when we’ve been stopped, a friendly conversation has always resolved any concerns. By spreading awareness, hopefully more people feel inspired to explore the outdoors and appreciate nature responsibly.

Personal experience with Allemansrätten

When going out exploring in Sweden, the allemansrätten feels like stepping into a world of wonder. It’s amazing how quickly we’ve got used to the freedom of it all. We rarely pause to consider its uniqueness on a global scale. The realization hits when we adventure elsewhere, encountering those annoying ‘no-entry’ signs. Yet, here in our own backyard, Sweden offers an expansive network of trails and roads to discover without worrying. So, dreamy gravel roads, stunning nature, and the right of public access. What a perk, right?

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Over the past few years, the Dirty Halland has become a staple in our cycling adventures. We’ve taken part in both the 2021 and 2022 editions of this social gravel race held in Hallands län every last weekend of March. Each year brings a new route filled with challenging gravel roads and steep climbs.

However, this time we decided to approach things a bit differently. We can’t solely blame the unpredictable weather on the day of the event. Our own lack of fitness played a significant role. So what do you do when faced with 160km of gravel and 2,500 meters of elevation? Well, we made the decision to cut the route in half and set our own pace, aiming for the Slowest Known Time (SKT) on the course. Here’s a photo recap of our Dirty Halland 2023 in touring mode.

Cycling from Falkenberg to Slöinge

Our journey began with a train ride from Malmö to Falkenberg. Upon arriving in Falkenberg, we wasted no time and embarked on a 20-kilometer bike ride to reach our charming Bed & Breakfast. We randomly picked a place on Booking.com, which was located conveniently close to the start- and finish location.

And at first glance, Slöinge may seem like an ordinary village blending into its surroundings, but upon closer inspection, we discovered a few local treasures. Within Slöinge, there’s the SIA ice cream factory, a coffee roaster, and one of the best fika spots we’ve come across called Solhaga Stenungsbageri.

The Northern loop of the Dirty Halland 2023

The northern loop of the route is a climber’s paradise. We braced ourselves for steep inclines and ventured onto rugged dirt roads that wound through lush forests, treating us to breathtaking views at every twist and turn. Sabina even spotted a majestic wild moose on the trail ahead of her, a truly awe-inspiring moment.

This part of the route truly tested our stamina and determination, as there wasn’t a single meter of level ground. As we pedaled through the area, it became apparent that it was heavily utilized for wood production. Enormous machinery and excavators with continuous tracks, shared the same gravel roads we were riding on. These already rough and rocky roads transformed into challenging washboard surfaces, adding an extra dose of thrill to our cycling experience.

Resupply options were scarce on this particular loop. However, our luck turned when we stumbled upon a generous individual living in an isolated cabin in the woods. She not only provided us with much-needed water for our bottles but also shared heartfelt advice. One peculiar piece of wisdom she offered was to avoid storing our phones in our cycling jerseys. As she believed it could potentially harm our kidneys. We found it odd at first, but it made sense coming from someone with such a unique lifestyle surrounded by nature’s serenity.

The Eastern loop of the Dirty Halland 2023

We set off on our intended route, eagerly embarking on our journey southward and then northeast. The initial kilometers were smooth and paved. But we knew that the real adventure awaited us beyond the first gravel section. As we pedaled along, we were treated to breathtaking glimpses of the ocean from the hills. Surrounded by the beauty of the Swedish countryside. 

Our timing couldn’t have been better, as we were fortunate enough to witness the vibrant yellow blooms of the rape seeds. Blanketing the landscapes in a golden hue.

Heading north, the terrain became more challenging, with climbs and technical trails. This occasionally required us to dismount and walk. But these moments of pushing our bikes only added to the thrill and sense of exploration on our journey. And let’s be honest, there’s something special about a good old hike-a-bike.

One particular highlight of the route was the section that encircled Biskopstorps Naturreservat. After a long climb, we found ourselves immersed in its beauty.

Rain and hail showers cut our ride short. We made the decision to deviate from the route and opted to ride back to our cozy Bed & Breakfast. We chose the wide road with a generous shoulder, ensuring that the few passing cars could safely give us enough space as we pedaled our way back.

Swedish slow living in Slöinge

Berte B&B in Slöinge served as the perfect base for our Dirty Halland experience in touring mode. And if your fitness level surpasses ours, why not take on the 2022 route the next day? You can practically pick up the route right at the doorstep of the Bed & Breakfast. Plus, the extensive breakfast provided is cyclist-proof, a true bonus.

Big shout out to Team Cyklamera for coming up with another spectacular route.

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For a lot of cyclists, the last week of December marks the annual Festive 500 challenge. Cycling enthusiasts attempt to ride a total of 500 kilometers between Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve in a challenge.

We also intended to saddle up and power through the 500 kilometers, like we did last year. However, a combination of illness and work-related stress crashed and burned the plan. Additionally, we couldn’t really be bothered to add any ‘pointless’ mileage to our total year distances.  So what to do now?

Well, this is where the Bikepacking.com Good Night Challenge came in. Good Night 2022 invites people to sleep under the stars, have a good night outdoors, and blissfully send off the year between December 25th and 31st. 

The good idea

Robin had everything planned out. The idea was to collect our camping gear and cycle to the biggest hilltop in our local area – just 35 kilometers from home. We’ve been there before, so we knew on a clear day you can see both the skyline of Malmö (Sweden) and Copenhagen (Denmark) in one line of sight. This had to be an incredible spot to see the fireworks at NYE. We could already imagine ourselves peaking through the doors of our tent, watching the colourful pyrotechnics in the sky. Whilst sipping champagne from a camping mug. 

The false start

But then we had a look at the weather forecast. Chances of a clear sky were absolutely null. The weather app on our phones predicted a visibility of a lousy four kilometers. And to top things off, the meteorological outlook showed torrential rain and heavy winds with gusts up 70 km/h.

But still we decided to head out to go NYE camping. We collected our stuff, wrapped ourselves in waterproof Gore-Tex gear from head to toe and we rolled out. To the train station. Approximately 1200 meters from home. Some say all adventures start with a train ride.

The reality of NYE camping

We rolled out for a proper start, hoping that the forecast had changed. Despite the bitter cold drizzle, the ride itself was rather enjoyable. There is something special about riding a bike in total darkness. We took a wrong turn and ultimately ended up on a hiking track with the typical Swedish wooden decks. You can’t beat a little adventure when you go NYE camping.

When we finally arrived at the hilltop in the natural reserve Häckeberga, there was zero visibility of the skylines. Because of the strong wind gusts it took a lot of effort to even get the ground sheet in place. It for sure didn’t help that we are still figuring out the best way to pitch our brand new Sea to Summit tent. After battling the wind for some time, the half-pitched tent almost blew away. We had no other choice than to seek out a more wind-sheltered location.

The happy end

So, did our little plan got us pinched? Yes, maybe. Because it was impossible to camp at the hilltop. We did not see any of the fireworks as it was pouring down at midnight. And we didn’t raise a glass since we forgot the bring a bottle of champagne. 

So was our NYE camping adventure a fiasco? Certainly not! We got exactly what we wanted: a good night spend outdoors. At the very least, one to remember. And during our ride back the next morning the sun even peeked through the clouds. A great success of the Bikepacking.com Good Night 2022 challenge and a magical start of 2023!

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